installiing pertronix ignitor

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installiing pertronix ignitor

Postby 65birdman » Tue Jul 10, 2012 5:02 pm

just wondering if any one has done this and if so how did you over come the resistor wire to the coil from the ignition as the unit requires 12 volts any help would be great thanks
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Postby gurn » Tue Jul 10, 2012 5:47 pm

Which pertronix unit are you using? If it's the original one then you don't have to bypass the resistor. pertronix II and III do require bypassing I believe as well as a hotter coil.
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Postby redstangbob » Tue Jul 10, 2012 6:10 pm

I had a little trouble starting until I supplied 12 volts to the unit. I ran a hidden wire from the ignition switch to the unit, and it works great. YMMV Bob C
http://www.pertronix.com/support/manual ... 12vneg.pdf
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Postby WC145 » Tue Jul 10, 2012 6:45 pm

I put a Pertronix Ignitor II on my '66 a couple of months ago and I've got 12.5v to the coil at idle without messing with any wires and it works great. I'm glad it does, too, since I never found the pink wire that I read needs to be bypassed.
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Postby gurn » Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:37 pm

Just installed mine tonight ( Ignitor I ) and she fired right up. When I checked voltage coming to the coil it was full battery so the restrictor must have been bypassed in the past. I even put in an original ford mustard topper coil I found at the bone yard and she started right up with that too. Haven't got to take her out on the road and test but she sure sounded good. To be on the safe side I bagged up the old points and coil and put it in the trunk just in case.
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Postby tbird » Wed Jul 11, 2012 11:36 pm

If you have a continuos 12 volt supply to the mustard top coil you will need the old coil somewhere along the line it is designed to run with 6-8 Volts.
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Postby gurn » Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:45 am

Thanks tbird, that makes scene. I will save it for a show if I ever get this car back to show quality and just put back in the old Accel coil that's worked great for years.
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Postby redstangbob » Thu Jul 12, 2012 3:22 pm

I never found the pink wire that I read needs to be bypassed

The pink resistor wire is in the harness from the ignition switch going across to the passenger side. The wire itself is about 2 feet long. It has bullet connectors and just unplugs for replacement.
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Postby WC145 » Thu Jul 12, 2012 3:59 pm

Thanks. I'm going to be changing the radio sometime soon, I'll look for it again then just in case I ever need it.
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Postby tyrone » Fri Jul 13, 2012 2:06 pm

if u look in a summit wee
b site u can fina a wire harness from pertronix that you can hook up in the engine compartment I laso coild not find that wire and brought this which by pass the systen and it was easy to hook up
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Postby David Langhorne » Sun Jul 15, 2012 5:53 am

A suitable ignition controlled 12v source under the hood is the top (reg/green) wire on the voltage regulator. I used this but later discovered I had a 12v wire to the coil - someone must have bypassed the resistor wire at some time and also changed the coil to a non ballast one (different resistance) so I could have used that instead. Never have had problems starting using the non ballasted coil.
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Postby Alan H. Tast » Sun Jul 15, 2012 12:04 pm

For those of you who haven't changed out the resistance wire, have you checked the voltage AFTER it has run for a while? The way a resistance wire works, it will allow full 12v through when cold, but as it warms up the voltage it allows to pass will drop to its designed rating.

I personally have a Pertronix Ignitor I on my '63 with A/C and for quite some time ran Pertronix' Flamethrower coil on it in the original mounting location, which holds the coil horizontal on the side of the A/C compressor instead of vertical. I've had two Flamethrowers in conjunction with my non-modified ignition wiring, i.e. I have the resistor wire in place, both Flamethrower coils failed without warning - the first one lasted about 6,000 miles until the insides of the coil liquified and shorted itself out. The second one less than 2,000 before it crapped out on me in the middle lane of a busy Interstate highway - after sitting 45 minutes to cool down it fired off (just in time to drive it onto the flatbed car hauler I called to haul me home).

I've since put my original coil back on but haven't driven it much since changing it out. I don't know if leaving the factory resistance wire was part of the problem, but right now I'm real skittish about being far from home without both a replacement coil and either a spare Ignitor or points/condenser. I've also learned that mounting a Flamethrower coil sideways/horizontal is not a good idea because over time heat build-up will allow the windings to fall onto the case and short out. So, if installing a Flamethrower coil, mount it vertically so that the terminals are at the top.
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Postby Spectre » Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:39 am

I hate to drag this back from the dead, but I'm confused.

My ignitor I and new coil should arrive today.

Do I have to bypass the resistor with the original Ignitor I?

If so, do I run a new 20 gauge wire directly from the ignition switch to the coil?

Sorry, electrical is not my strong suit.
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Postby RedBird64 » Fri Mar 22, 2013 10:33 am

The instructions are very good and will tell you what to do but if you are just installing the Pertronix and not a coil too then I'm pretty sure you just use the existing wire to power it.
One thing you need to know is it may change your timing so you need to check that after install. My timing is changed by 10 degree at idle with the Pert. (which I've had on my car for more than 30 years)
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Postby tbird » Fri Mar 22, 2013 11:20 am

I have been running the original Ignitor 1 on my 59 Ford Retractable Hardtop with a 352 engine (same as 390) since 1999 when I purchased the car it has never even burped.
The coil is stock and they are designed to have a external resistor such as the wire but the Ford actually used a resistor block at that time all I did was throw away the points and condenser install the Pertronix module in their place and connect the red wire from it to the plus side of the coil the black goes to the neg. coil connection. The coil gets a full 12 volts from the ignition wire at the starter relay when the starter is engaged and then the power comes from the ignition switch through the resistor which is all the original requires to provide a good spark, if the coil is being replaced you may need a full 12 volts to it that should be checked out if so the module can be fed 12 volts with no problems.
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