radiator recommendation

[posmanski]

Hi, I'm looking for recommendations on a new OEM style radiator for my '57. I searched the forum and the topics I found were all several years old. Thanks.

[MarkR]

I bought this one from autocity1958 on eBay about 6 years ago. Looks original. Direct bolt in. It was highly recommended and has performed well here in Vegas. Aluminum, two row 1” tubes. Read their description for cooling comparisons. You’ll need to paint it black and I added the rubber overflow tube. It was around $250 or so.

[Jimntempe]

I replaced a 4 row brass with this and it cools better. Looks original if you paint it black. Fit was perfect. I've been very satisfied so far and the price is excellent. I think it was from the same seller MarkR referred to.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/291531596201

[BuddyP]

Use radiator paint. It's thinner and will not affect heat transfer. I used this: https://www.eastwood.com/ew-radiator-bl ... inish.html

[ward 57]

I'd like to know the cost difference from having the original refurbished VS new. My original is working fine but should blow the bugs and dirt out from the back. I would like to figure out how to clean or paint the whole behind the grill black as it's just a light black with all the dirt build-up over the years without tearing things apart.

[Jimntempe]

I'd like to know the cost difference from having the original refurbished VS new. My original is working fine but should blow the bugs and dirt out from the back. I would like to figure out how to clean or paint the whole behind the grill black as it's just a light black with all the dirt build-up over the years without tearing things apart.

I doubt you can have your old one touched for less than $200. Last brass one I had rebuilt 15 years ago cost over $400 (brand new HD core).

[ward 57]

If challenged I would go that way also. Less expensive doesn't equate to me trying to keep it as original as possible. It still works as designed. Same with every other system on the car.

[Rusty57]

If your existing radiator is providing acceptable cooling I suggest that you get it cleaned by “tanking” it and then pressure tested.

I do agree that will probably cost you between $200 and $300 at a competent radiator shop. The shop I use does include painting with radiator paint with a choice of gloss levels.

Getting a radiator recored (existing upper and lower tanks soldered to a new core) is probably a $600 to $800 deal.

[MarkR]

I was able to have the 55 radiator tanked and two pinholes repaired and used it from 2005-2017. It still had some issues but was ok. I finally tired of it and bought the one mentioned above. It runs about 8 degrees cooler and no worries. So far.
The 57 original radiator in 2007 was useless. Had to go new. I can’t remember where it came from. Probably Larry’s.

[posmanski]

Thanks everyone. My original radiator has sprung a leak. I used to live close to a radiator repair shop and had radiators repaired in the past, but I've since moved and there no radiator repair shops anywhere near me.

[RossL]

I paid $665 to get the original 1955 re-cored. The shop that did the work told me the original will outperform the aluminum replacements.

[posmanski]

I'll keep the original in storage on the off chance that I'll find a repair shop nearby one day. But the new aluminum one from the guy on eBay is scheduled for delivery on Monday! Affordable and quick delivery- can't beat that. Thanks for the recommendation fellas.

[Alan H. Tast]

I've never been a big fan of aluminum radiators, heads or manifolds because of dielectric activity and/or the proclivity of coolant to turn acidic, along with the damage that can be done when mixing aluminum and cast iron components without a proper barrier between them. Part of the maintenance routine is to frequently check the pH level and change out the coolant at least every couple of years. There are workarounds like radiator caps with sacrificial anodes that are submersed in the upper tank of the radiator to take the brunt of the deleterious effects of coolant/aluminum component reaction. Lately I've been reading that some recommend using the current 'orange' type coolants and not the glycol-based green ones to help stem the problem.