Installing options cost and difficulty

[RossL]

I'm in the market for a 55/56. How much would it be to install the following options with OEM type parts? I plan on doing the labor myself.

1) Power Steering
2) Power Brakes
3) Power Windows
4) Back up lights
5) sun visors (for 55)
6) Converting 1955 to 12 volts

[ward 57]

Probably as much as the purchase price. Get the parts catalogs from the major suppliers. Hill's, CASCO, Concours and Larry's. Then do your shopping with the knowledge of what you want to add and the parts costs and the labor involved.

[MarkR]

I agree with Ward. You’d be ahead to buy a nice 55/56 with your options and forget doing all that work and spending the big bucks. Sun visors would be on a 56.

[ICON 1956]

Great advice from the fellow members, Find one that has the things you want. You'll be ahead. Forget trying to do it yourself cause you will NEVER have the time to do it....Been there done that!

[ward 57]

Great advice from the fellow members, Find one that has the things you want. You'll be ahead. Forget trying to do it yourself cause you will NEVER have the time to do it....Been there done that!

Best advice I've heard. I've had my car for almost 50yrs and I still find stuff to do to keep it original. Once you start modifying you might as well get a bucket to shovel cash into unless your wallet is ready for a black hole to make it the way you want.

[RossL]

I agree with what you are saying about buy one that has everything............ I would like Power steering, brakes, windows and seat but not many cars seem to have all of them.

I'm considering a really nice 55 (probably the best car in my budget range), that one doesn't have power windows and it's still 6 volt. Obviously doesn't have sun visors................. I really prefer the lines/bumpers on the 55.

[ICON 1956]

The 55's didn't come with sun visors, WInter is coming so I would go on the hunt. Find one that would have most of your options you want.

[ward 57]

I agree with what you are saying about buy one that has everything............ I would like Power steering, brakes, windows and seat but not many cars seem to have all of them.

I'm considering a really nice 55 (probably the best car in my budget range), that one doesn't have power windows and it's still 6 volt. Obviously doesn't have sun visors................. I really prefer the lines/bumpers on the 55.

My '57 has almost every option in the book but no power seat. Don't miss it, would never use it as I'm the only driver and once set and the wheel adjusted just right, just another PITA to deal with.

[ICON 1956]

I agree with what you are saying about buy one that has everything............ I would like Power steering, brakes, windows and seat but not many cars seem to have all of them.

I'm considering a really nice 55 (probably the best car in my budget range), that one doesn't have power windows and it's still 6 volt. Obviously doesn't have sun visors................. I really prefer the lines/bumpers on the 55.

My '57 has almost every option in the book but no power seat. Don't miss it, would never use it as I'm the only driver and once set and the wheel adjusted just right, just another PITA to deal with.

BTW what is your budget ?....

[55blacktie]

Finding a nice 55 with power steering, power brakes, and power windows shouldn't be difficult. All 55s came with a power seat. My 55 has power windows, power seat, and Fordomatic, but no power steering or power brakes. Personally, I would prefer not having power windows or power seat. If you convert a 55 to 12v, but leave the 6v seat and window motors, they will move very fast. Closing the windows while the top is in place can cause injury to unsuspecting passengers. Slamming the windows closed or the seat all the way forward or back can cause damage to same. The 6v heater blower motor can be operated at low speed on 12v, but the motor gets hot (ask MarkR).

You could buy a 56 that has everything you want, replace the rear bumper with a 55 bumper and remove the continental kit. You can sell the 56 bumper and continental kit to someone who finds them desirable. The OEM 56 continental kit and bumper, in my opinion, are far more desirable than aftermarket parts that stick out way too far.

The Sacramento Valley Classic Thunderbird Club is advertising a few cars for sale in their monthly newsletter. I'll go back and look at the years and options, if you're interested. Personally, I would prefer buying a car from a Tbird club member, unless you go all out and buy one from a professional restorer, like Amos Minter.

[RossL]

[/quote]
BTW what is your budget ?....
[/quote]

My budget for the car is $30K, I am prepared to spend a little more for the options. I definitely need power steering and brakes. I really want power windows........ And I will install air conditioning

[ranchbird]

I've said this before, Bring A Trailer is a good place to look at to see what certain cars are going for, there are quite a few T-Birds that come on and usually sell from the mid twenty's to low thirty's. You'll find Minter quality restored to daily drivers, lots of detailed pictures you can also go back and see what cars have sold for months back, right know there is a yellow 55 that just came on with all the options you're looking for including converted to 12 volts, there is 6 days left on the auction and right now has a bid of $3000.

[Rusty57]

I agree that Bring-A-Trailer is an excellent source of information for both pricing and the details of the vehicle. I often use their pictures to determine how things might or should look when I am refurbishing a portion of our car.

My assessment is that you can get a nice driver car with many of those options for $30k. Mu observation is that the cost difference between a nice driver with few options and one with those options is way less than the cost of adding them.

The trade-off i see is that adding all those items including AC is going to be at least $5k in parts alone. The dilemma I see is that spending less that $25k on one of these cars is going to get you more of a "project" car than you might want.

I will also share my "rule of thumb" when I buy a classic car. I expect that in the next 6 to 12 months after I bought it I will spend at least 10% of the price getting it into the safe and reliable condition I want.

[ward 57]

I must agree with Rusty. My son in-law just bought a pristine '66 Mustang high country edition. I had it for a few weeks and tinkered before I had to deliver it in Boise. At one time it had been properly refurbished. looked like the wiring was wrong. Apparently the turn signal switch had been replaced at some time and the wire harness was hanging under the dash. The flasher just hanging also. Re-fitted everything and tucked the harness back where it should have been. A top notch refurbish had been done but under the dash not so much. My trick of PB Blaster on the dash light rheostat Got the dash lights working and cleaned the fuse box. Now EVERYTHING worked.
Low milage but spent much of it's life as a garage trophy. Turned it back into a beautiful driver. My advice is to buy a good driver with close to everything you want but just rough enough to find something to tinker and hone your skills and enjoy the fine tuning to your taste. That is the joy of classics using your own labor. But most of all you want to drive it not just show it as that is the point.

[DynoDan’55]

My ‘55’s only factory options when delivered: OD/skirts/eng. dress-up/heater. Back up lights were an easy install (radio/anntenna also). PS would be nice in the rare instances while parking, but since most of my driving is rural highways, I prefer the more precise manual steering to the vague 50s power system, and the OD is great also (no city traffic jams for me, and I love the floor shift, so maybe I’m spoiled). Oversize battery cables only upgrade needed with 6V (though more elect. accessories added might change that). Luckily, I found a 50s NOS Ford ‘switching’ rear view mirror online (much appreciated). Never missed PBs (nor PWs either, though reaching over to roll up the pass. window when it rains IS rather a pain). Carrying a couple ball caps IS required though (cheaper, and still OEM too).