63 windshield Front vent drains

[Rocketman]

On my 63 there is a small grill in front of the windshield that the windshield wipers are mounted on. Under the hood on the firewall in the left and right corners there are oval holes that go into the firewall. These are missing the rubber drain tubes. I put a small flashlight inside the oval hole on the drivers side and when I look under the dash I can see light inside of the vertical floor vent. So my questions are:
1. What purpose does is this windshield grill area serve?
2. If drain tubes are supposed to be installed on the oval holes in the fire wall, where do they drain to?
3. What prevents water from entering the passenger compartment? When it rains water drips on my feet near the head light dimmer switch.

[Mheiron]

That’s the fresh air intake vent.

Rain drains out the vent tubes you mentioned between the firewall and rear splash shield. No water should be on your feet even if the drain hoses are missing.

Replace the hoses If they are missing ASAP. They keep hot air from the engine compartment out of the fresh air intake. The car interior will be way to hot if they are missing.

[bayonet1234]

Anyone have a picture of how they should look?

[Jim Wulf]

You have rust holes around the inlet tube under the cowel which is letting the water into the passenger compartment. This is a very common condition. I would check the floor to see if that's now rusted too. This is a difficult area to repair, requiring that a hole be cut in the metal cover under the cowl to gain access to the tube inlet. OR, you can try reaching under the cover and scraping out all the rust and old caulk and then resealing the tube with modern polyurethane caulk. This is a messy and difficult business as you really need to apply it by feel with your fingers, but it can be made to work if you have enough patience and a long, flexible arm. A scope works well to see what's going on under there.

[Rocketman]

Thank You for the info. I will check these areas to ensure all is dry. I ordered the new hoses and will install as soon as they arrive. The cowl was removed just prior to painting and there was no rust out. The floor boards are in good shape under the carpet and when inspected from below the car.

[Rocketman]

As for the heat inside, you are correct there it does get warm inside the cabin. Thanks

[Jim Wulf]

Thank You for the info. I will check these areas to ensure all is dry. I ordered the new hoses and will install as soon as they arrive. The cowl was removed just prior to painting and there was no rust out. The floor boards are in good shape under the carpet and when inspected from below the car.

If only it were that simple. The drain tube inlets are completely covered so you will absolutely not be able to see any rust/holes in those areas by simply removing the top cover.

[Willilam]

Hi,

I know this thread is a few years old, but I have the same problem. My fresh air intake hoses are missing and it gets very hot inside the car. Does anyone know where I can find these and the clips? I've tried Birds Nest, Pat Wilsons, Rare Parts, but no luck.

Many thanks

Will

[Alan H. Tast]

Hi,

I know this thread is a few years old, but I have the same problem. My fresh air intake hoses are missing and it gets very hot inside the car. Does anyone know where I can find these and the clips? I've tried Birds Nest, Pat Wilsons, Rare Parts, but no luck.

Many thanks

Will

Fabricate the rubber connector between the heater box and flange for the intake from an old piece of inner tube and rubber cement. You should be able to reuse the large spring steel clamps that held the hose in place.

[claybreaker 144]

This is what you need to purchase, they were in stock a month ago at Pat Wilson Thunderbird parts and I purchased one. You will have to remove the rubber and clamp from the new part and reuse the original flange. [img][/img][attachment=0]PXL_20240109_165209935.jpg

(Below) Original flange is on the left the new flange is on the right. If you use the fresh air inlet duct as supplied there will be water infiltration to the HVAC box as the flange is a flush fit whereas the original has a big lip standing in the bottom of the cowl that keeps the water away. I've done a three of these and unfortunately they are now using adhesive and staples on the flange so removing the rubber is more a job. Good Luck!