More exhaust questions:

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JamesR
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2019 7:47 pm

More exhaust questions:

Post by JamesR »

OK, so I ordered the H pipe for my 65, no problem. The part hasn't arrived yet, but I'm looking at my existing exhaust and see a probable installation dilemma for the H pipe.

To install the H pipe into the existing exhaust pipes that run the length of the wheelbase (more or less) I'll have to move it forward 2 or three inches ahead of it's eventual permanent mounting location in order to fit the "male" portion of the new H pipe into the "female" portion of the existing exhaust, if that makes any sense. The problem is that the vertical (more or less) section of the existing H pipe (close to where it connects to the exh. manifold) is only about 1/16" behind very stout looking steel structural reinforcement bar on the driver side that's angled up from driver's side floor to the cross member of the engine portion of the frame. In other words, moving the new pipe forward 2-3 inches for installation with that reinforcement in place isn't a possibility. There's another symmetrically placed bar on the passenger side and the the passenger side pipe is likewise about 1/16" behind it - also a very tight fit.

Getting the existing H pipe off isn't really an issue because I can take a hacksaw to it and get it off in pieces, but that's obviously not going to work for the new pipe. Those structural reinforcement bars are bolted on, and if I could unbolt them to install the H pipe, that might give me enough room to accomplish the accomplish.

So...can you remove those reinforcement bars and reinstall them without causing damage to the unibody? FYI, the front of the car is up on ramps for the project, if that makes any difference. I have no access to a lift. Also, I'll have to remove both structural reinforcement bars at the same time to make the installation.

Wouldn't be an issue if replacing the whole exhaust...you just install the H pipe first then work backwards. If I can't remove those reinforcement bars, my only other option would be to unhang the entire existing exhaust...maybe even disassemble it, then install the new H pipe and work back. Kind of a pain.

I'm tempted to take the new part to a local exhaust place and have them install it, as a lift is a big help in this relatively minor project, but if the reinforcements can't be removed, I'm worried they might anyway, regardless of my instructions.
Last edited by JamesR on Thu Jan 02, 2020 6:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
jtschug
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Re: More exhaust questions:

Post by jtschug »

Yes, you can remove both of those braces that bolt to the cross-member under the oil pan at the same time when you are working on the car without jeopardy.
1966 Thunderbird Convertible (Emberglo / White-Emberglo)
Modified 428 - stroked, rollercam, aluminum top end, headers
Livermore, CA
JamesR
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Re: More exhaust questions:

Post by JamesR »

Thanks jtschug.
tbird
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Re: More exhaust questions:

Post by tbird »

You likely need to raise the rear of the car on axle stands to allow enough room to move the pipe back as it is slid out of its installed position. Also remove the clamps and/or loosen as required to be able to move the rest of the system to get the pipe out of the H pipe slip connectors if they are not presently welded, it should not be necessary to remove the support under the transmission as the pipe is installed under it.
Jim Mills
VTCI # 8071
VTCI 1964-66 Technical Editor
2002 Thunderbird
1965 Convertible
1962 Convertible (in progress)
1959 Ford Retractable HT
Many parts cars
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RedBird64
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Re: More exhaust questions:

Post by RedBird64 »

I slid the new H pipe into the next pipe before connecting it to the manifolds. Leave it loose and you'll be able to move it for and aft.

Scott
1964 Coupe Wimbledon white/Rangoon Red w/black int. Owned for 42 years. It was my folks car before that (second owners). VTCI # 12013.
JamesR
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Re: More exhaust questions:

Post by JamesR »

Thanks Scott and Jim. At least that portion of the job will be easier than I thought.

I have most of the old H pipe out already (thanks to my hacksaw) but the portions going into the the existing pipes to remain are really stuck in there. When I was a kid changing out exhaust components was a straight forward job that anyone could do, but I hated doing it because of the rust...unless I was changing out the whole system. I have some strategies for removing the remaining H pipe portions without damaging the existing pipe that I think will work.
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RedBird64
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Re: More exhaust questions:

Post by RedBird64 »

James, another way to do it is to use a band clamp, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Evilenergy-Joint ... XVDJ4BYB8Q

That way you can just cut the old pipe to butt up to the H pipe and the band clamp does the rest. These are actually superior to the other style of clamp and are the law for some applications, like school buses.

I used them on that very connection so that I could easily take it apart in case I ever wanted to go to headers.
1964 Coupe Wimbledon white/Rangoon Red w/black int. Owned for 42 years. It was my folks car before that (second owners). VTCI # 12013.
JamesR
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Re: More exhaust questions:

Post by JamesR »

RedBird64 wrote: Sat Jan 04, 2020 11:59 pm James, another way to do it is to use a band clamp, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Evilenergy-Joint ... XVDJ4BYB8Q

That way you can just cut the old pipe to butt up to the H pipe and the band clamp does the rest. These are actually superior to the other style of clamp and are the law for some applications, like school buses.

I used them on that very connection so that I could easily take it apart in case I ever wanted to go to headers.
Wow, that's a great idea. I was about ready to take my '65 to Midas on m Monday out of frustration...this could change things. But does the band clamp have as good a seal as the male to female connection? You have to use sealant, I presume?

What I like about the band clamp idea is if you join a new exhaust component to an older one, you don't have the transfer of rust from old to new AND disconnecting components after years of being connected looks like a non-issue. How critical is it that the two pipes butt up to each other perfectly? It seems measuring and cutting for a perfect fit could be a challenge, especially when one of the pipes is already mounted on the car.
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RedBird64
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Re: More exhaust questions:

Post by RedBird64 »

The band clamp fits so well that you really dont need sealant and most people dont use any. If you want, you can use the red stuff to seal it up.
It's code though for school busses!

S
1964 Coupe Wimbledon white/Rangoon Red w/black int. Owned for 42 years. It was my folks car before that (second owners). VTCI # 12013.
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