No interior/courtesy lights

[DakotaLee]

The two wires, blue and green, connect together and go to one side of the drivers door switch.
The other side of the switch should have a black wire coming off. The black wire should be hot all the time.



I suggest you look farther up the harness with those two wires an see if the black one is cut off or tucked up someplace.

Scott

I cut up and there’s no third wire.

Meanwhile, I checked the passenger side. Found 4 dangling wires there. Shorted the two green wires and they blew the int lamp fuse. I got A feeling that I should check my schematics for a better idea, and found a good lead. LH side only has two wires(confirming my find), and RH has 4 wires(also confirming my find). I will not know if I will get a successful set of lights until my new switches arrive, so I will leave them for now.

[RAVEN]

Going WAY WAY OUT THERE, concerning those blue wires. Does the car have the convience package option? (Door ajar light)? The blue wires would be for the grounding lead that the P.O. added to add the option to the car in the past!

[RedBird64]

Right Switch
I have a color schematic that shows the two green/yel wires connected to one side of the Right door switch and the two black/blue wires connected to the other side of it. So all you need to do is put 2 connectors on those 4 wires and the right side will be done.

Left Switch
On the left side, you currently have a black/blue wire and a green/yellow wire. Connect one of those to each side of the left switch.
What you're missing on the left is a light blue wire. It feeds power all the way back to the trunk light.
If you can find the missing light blue wire, connect it to the grn/yel wire and you're done.

Hope this helps!

Scott

[DakotaLee]

Right Switch
I have a color schematic that shows the two green/yel wires connected to one side of the Right door switch and the two black/blue wires connected to the other side of it. So all you need to do is put 2 connectors on those 4 wires and the right side will be done.

Left Switch
On the left side, you currently have a black/blue wire and a green/yellow wire. Connect one of those to each side of the left switch.
What you're missing on the left is a light blue wire. It feeds power all the way back to the trunk light.
If you can find the missing light blue wire, connect it to the grn/yel wire and you're done.

Hope this helps!

Scott

That inspired me to take a look in another '66 wiring manual.

Check this out! The blue trunk light wire ends up being the green/yellow. So theoretically I should have all the wires, just need to hook em up! Wish I had the switches already! Meantime... What are those little connectors even called? Can't find a technical term. Was going to just go down to the hardware store and mosey until I find them.

[RedBird64]

Yes, exactly Lee; you have everything minus perhaps the light blue wire.

The terminals are called "bullet" connectors. There is a modern version available at auto parts stores but they are much smaller. You can spread them out enough to make them work but that's rather cheasy.
I Googled Vintage Ford bullet connector and got several hits like this one: https://www.vintageford.com/sect_search ... d%20Bullet
FWIW, I have never seen the larger Ford size bullet terminals at any auto parts store - just the little ones but I have made them work a couple of times.

For some reason I was thinking you had a 64 but it looks like the wire colors were still the same for 66 in this instance.

Scott

[redstangbob]

DakotaLee, I've got to ask after all your efforts, what are you using for test equipment besides the schematic? This circuit should be easily proved-out with a cheap test light, and a jumper wire. When you said you 'shorted' the green wires do you mean you touched them together? If so that points me to a short circuit, possibly in the trunk light wire. But as you can see, there are a few more things on that wire, including the clock. I'd leave the wires apart for now, and either replace the fuse or use a jumper wire from the fuse box to the right door switch or wires and see if any lights work. With a new fuse, one green/yellow should be hot, leave the other alone while testing. JMO, Bob C

[RedBird64]

Lee, you obviously have a good grasp of the problem and are moving forward.
Please let us know how it all works out!
BTW, connecting the green wires together isn't "shorting" them since they are intended to be connected together.

Scott

[DakotaLee]

Lee, you obviously have a good grasp of the problem and are moving forward.
Please let us know how it all works out!
BTW, connecting the green wires together isn't "shorting" them since they are intended to be connected together.

Scott

Thanks a ton! Great to know about the bullet connectors. You're right, I didn't even notice they're on the same plug.

I also now see what you mean now about the blue wire, the plug may have been cut short. I'm hoping that's not the case. We will see.

DakotaLee, I've got to ask after all your efforts, what are you using for test equipment besides the schematic? This circuit should be easily proved-out with a cheap test light, and a jumper wire. When you said you 'shorted' the green wires do you mean you touched them together? If so that points me to a short circuit, possibly in the trunk light wire. But as you can see, there are a few more things on that wire, including the clock. I'd leave the wires apart for now, and either replace the fuse or use a jumper wire from the fuse box to the right door switch or wires and see if any lights work. With a new fuse, one green/yellow should be hot, leave the other alone while testing. JMO, Bob C

I do in fact have a test light, but it's doing me no good in the trunk. I'll pull it out and do a run through.

I'm hoping the trunk light is intact, I just traced the trunk wiring to the bulb and it seemed good. Would just like to not have to pull the seats this week.

[sseebart]

The two wires, blue and green, connect together and go to one side of the drivers door switch.
The other side of the switch should have a black wire coming off. The black wire should be hot all the time.



I suggest you look farther up the harness with those two wires an see if the black one is cut off or tucked up someplace.

Scott

Jeez, Scott, would you please clean your car? I think I see a speck of dirt back there in the door jamb.

~Steve

[RedBird64]

Jeez, Scott, would you please clean your car? I think I see a speck of dirt back there in the door jamb.

~Steve

I always detail before every pic!

S

[redstangbob]

The black wire should be hot all the time.

not the way I see it, the black/blue wire(s) are the load side of the switch, going to the lights. the #57 black wires ground the lights. yes-no.....?

[RedBird64]

The black wire should be hot all the time.

not the way I see it, the black/blue wire(s) are the load side of the switch, going to the lights. the #57 black wires ground the lights. yes-no.....?

Strange, I thought I corrected that in one of my edit's but it didn't show up!

Yes, It's a black/blue wire coming off the switch and it feeds +12V to both courtesy lights.

S

[DakotaLee]

Okay so here we are today.

I got those ford bullet connectors, hooked em up and bam! Lights are on. Blew a fuse the first time I opened the trunk, but after #2 all the lights came on and stayed on, except...

Driver’s side door light does not turn on. Also, the lights won’t turn off when the doors close. They dim when I depress the switches, but they still won’t turn off. For the time being I will remove the fuse, but I’m at a crossroads, stumped again!

The first photo shows my driver’s side. The two vinyl taped wires are going to the switch. This area is where all my suspicion lies.

[jtschug]

There should be some white plastic wedges on the inside of the door hinge that push on the door switches when the door closes. If one of those is missing the lights will stay on all the time.

[DakotaLee]

There should be some white plastic wedges on the inside of the door hinge that push on the door switches when the door closes. If one of those is missing the lights will stay on all the time.

Wedges are good... I think there’s nothing hot getting to the driver door, which is what I don’t have an explaination for. Everything (seems) to be where it should.