I'm finishing up the restoration of my 66' Town Landau. After installing and providing power to the rear tail light assembly, the rear brake light came on immediately, without turning the light switch on or hitting the brake panel. I can't get them to go off without cutting power from the battery. The dash light switch, brake light switch and the stop light relay are new.
So I moved on to installing the headlights and parking lights. I tested them and they worked fine going on and off with the switch. After installing the front fender turn signals, only one headlight (right low beam), will now go on, with the other 3 headlights lit, but very dimly. Also, no parking lights. I then disconnected the front turn signals, but that made no difference.
When I turn on the left turn signal, the left fender indicator lights, and the right rear tail light lights up, but neither blink. When I hit the right turn signal, the right front fender lights along with the left rear tail light. Again neither blink. The car sat for years before I restored it. I took the complete interior out including the dash and inspected all the wiring. It all looked good and it did not look like it was cut into or altered any way, all looked stock. Could this be a ground issue??? I'm at my wits end with this. Any help or insight would be appreciated.
Electrical Gremlins
Moderator: redstangbob
Re: Electrical Gremlins
I understand your frustration. I am fighting electrical gremlins myself.
First I suggest that all of the different problems may have different causes, so you may need to take them one at a time. You may find that when you fix one problem, several problems go away -- just consider that a surprise victory and take a moment to celebrate.
Second, please don't make the assumption that new parts always work. Reproduction parts (in general) are not at the same quality as Ford parts, NOS parts have sat on a shelf for 50 years, and used parts are...well...used. So no "new" part you bolt on your car should be above suspicion. This is why I strongly advise owners not to make a lot of changes at the same time. There is a hypothesis of the problem, there is a proposed solution to fix that problem. When the solution is enacted and it does not fix the problem, then go back to the hypothesis and consider alternatives. Think about ways you can test the function of relays and switches before they are installed to give you confidence in their integrity.
Get wire diagrams. Trace circuits. Start taking Yoga classes. Become a contortionist. I am only half kidding.
Get a good VOM and know how to use it. Get a test light. You should have a good wire crimper, soldering gun (not iron), and heat gun. Build a decent 12V power supply (or buy one, recognizing power/amperage limitations). Waytek wire sells good supplies, but they are not the only source: cross-linked high temperature automotive wire, heat shrink tubing, connectors. One warning: I find that bullet connectors are a little small for our connectors, so sometimes they need a little tweak with needle nose pliers for a snug fit.
There is a technical article describing how to adjust the relay to make the fender signals blink here:
http://vintagethunderbirdclub.net/Tech% ... ration.htm
The Front and rear turn signals are on a separate circuit controlled by the mummy in the trunk. Assuming you have replaced the stop light relay, this mummy has already been dissected.
First I suggest that all of the different problems may have different causes, so you may need to take them one at a time. You may find that when you fix one problem, several problems go away -- just consider that a surprise victory and take a moment to celebrate.
Second, please don't make the assumption that new parts always work. Reproduction parts (in general) are not at the same quality as Ford parts, NOS parts have sat on a shelf for 50 years, and used parts are...well...used. So no "new" part you bolt on your car should be above suspicion. This is why I strongly advise owners not to make a lot of changes at the same time. There is a hypothesis of the problem, there is a proposed solution to fix that problem. When the solution is enacted and it does not fix the problem, then go back to the hypothesis and consider alternatives. Think about ways you can test the function of relays and switches before they are installed to give you confidence in their integrity.
Get wire diagrams. Trace circuits. Start taking Yoga classes. Become a contortionist. I am only half kidding.
Get a good VOM and know how to use it. Get a test light. You should have a good wire crimper, soldering gun (not iron), and heat gun. Build a decent 12V power supply (or buy one, recognizing power/amperage limitations). Waytek wire sells good supplies, but they are not the only source: cross-linked high temperature automotive wire, heat shrink tubing, connectors. One warning: I find that bullet connectors are a little small for our connectors, so sometimes they need a little tweak with needle nose pliers for a snug fit.
There is a technical article describing how to adjust the relay to make the fender signals blink here:
http://vintagethunderbirdclub.net/Tech% ... ration.htm
The Front and rear turn signals are on a separate circuit controlled by the mummy in the trunk. Assuming you have replaced the stop light relay, this mummy has already been dissected.
1966 Thunderbird Convertible (Emberglo / White-Emberglo)
Modified 428 - stroked, rollercam, aluminum top end, headers
Livermore, CA
Modified 428 - stroked, rollercam, aluminum top end, headers
Livermore, CA
Re: Electrical Gremlins
The headlight and parking light issues sound like a missing ground to me.
Scott
Scott
1964 Coupe Wimbledon white/Rangoon Red w/black int. Owned for 42 years. It was my folks car before that (second owners). VTCI # 12013.
Re: Electrical Gremlins
There's a great tutorial in the General Tech section on how to build one of these: viewtopic.php?f=32&t=9406
~Steve