Springs - Suspention

[Zerkfitting]

My 1965 hardtop is sitting a low, about a half inch on the passenger side and almost 1-1/2 inches on the driver’s side. I’m guessing it needs new springs (a local shop would be doing the job). I did a search to get an idea what the components cost but I realized I don’t know what parts are needed. I’m wondering if there is any difference between springs from different manufacturers. Searching the forum it looks like there is a range of prices. Any advice is appreciated.

[paulr]

My 1965 hardtop is sitting a low, about a half inch on the passenger side and almost 1-1/2 inches on the driver’s side. I’m guessing it needs new springs

Which end, front, back, both ends? If it's back end it could be a few things, but most likely rusted out spring. If it's front end also, you have major issues. In front, I'd look for some kind of heavy collision damage--it's also possible a spring has been compromised, i.e., cut, etc. Normally, those front springs are not likely to be the reason for your problem, even after 50+ years. Even though they look curved--bent--that is the correct profile installed in the Tbird.

I did a search to get an idea what the components cost but I realized I don’t know what parts are needed. I’m wondering if there is any difference between springs from different manufacturers.Any advice is appreciated.

On any 64-66 Tbird front end, I'd rebuild every other part first and question the springs last. Look closer the control arms, struts, tie rod ends, pitman arm, center link, ball joints, all the bushings, shims, etc.-- all that stuff. Did you look at the shocks?

I’m wondering if there is any difference between springs from different manufacturers. Searching the forum it looks like there is a range of prices.

Regarding leaf springs the only ones worth buying are Eaton. Aside from that, at least never buy anything made from Chinese steel. This video has the manufacturer explaining the science behind steel. You learn why cheap springs are not what you want on a 4500 lb. Tbird. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKhWOIvvZmo
Good luck. Bring more questions, pictures.

[Zerkfitting]

Thank you for the information.

The car is a 48k survivor and I don't see any signs of an accident. (The video had a lot of good information).

These are the measurements I recorded (I've found three stock ride heights from various sources).
LF = 26-1/2"
LR = 22"
RR = 23"
RF = 27-1/2"
I think I need to double check my measurements, I probably rounded them off.

I found another thread that talked about the body mounts so I'll also be measuring the height at the frame next time I take the car out.

[tbird]

Not much in the way of body mounts on a 64/66 Tbird as it is a uni-body built car.

[bbogue]

Ditto on the suggestion of Eaton for leaf springs. When I replaced the ones on my 61 I noted that the springs for the convertible were slightly stiffer. I chose them for my hardtop as part of making the suspension stiffer overall. I see that Eaton offers slightly stiffer leaf springs for your model year, too. Something to consider.

Bill

[Zerkfitting]

I measured the body to the top of the wheel wells:

LF = 26-9/16"
LR = 22"
RR = 22-3/4"
RF = 27-3/16"

Then I measured the height to the bottom of the front frame member by the radiator and to the bottom of the rear spring shackle:

LF = 11-3/4"
LR = 9-1/2"
RR = 10-3/16"
RF = 11-3/4"

I'm not quite sure how to interpret the data or if I was measuring appropriate points.

[sseebart]

Take a look at the procedure for measuring ride height in this thread, I think it will help:

https://www.vintagethunderbirdclub.net/ ... t=ash+tray

~Steve

[bwssr]

I had the same thing. It turned out that one of the front springs was stronger than the other. I had a spare set of springs so I replace it. All level now. I had a 65 with weak springs and got new ones. Made a little difference.