Rear Leaf Springs

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Haz567
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Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2017 1:40 pm
Location: Kentucky

Rear Leaf Springs

Post by Haz567 »

I am replacing the rear bushings & anti-squeaks on my leaf springs. One side, after carefully marking before removal and measuring after removal, had all of the short sides from the centering bolt towards the front. After doing the same on the other side, the other side had the long side towards the front on the last (lowest and shortest) leaf, the remaining leafs with short towards the front.
Am I correct that all leafs short side are on the front?

Almost ready to put this spring back on, and that leads to the other part of this post.

Anybody considering replacing all rear leaf spring bushings (front and back) should first test the front bolts thru the frame sleeve and the spring eye bushing to see if the bolt will turn. If the bolt will not turn with reasonable effort after loosening the outside nut and letting everything cook a few days with your favorite penetrant, and unless the bushing is really shot; leave it alone. I have succeeded in breaking this bolt off inside the frame sleeve, and it has been a bear so far, and not out yet. Obviously, Ford designed the clearance between the I.D. of the sleeve and the o.d. of the bolt really close. Anybody know if it was pressed in?
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paul2748
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Re: Rear Leaf Springs

Post by paul2748 »

They are not pressed in, but years of exposure to the elements usually rusts the bolt to the bushing.

If you know some one with a hydraulic press, it may be the way to go. Press out the whole assembly and replace the bushings.
1956 Fiesta Red 312
1954 Ford Victoria 312
1948 Ford Convertible Street Rod 302
goldwinghg
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Re: Rear Leaf Springs

Post by goldwinghg »

Have you tried heating with a rose bud?
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Haz567
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Re: Rear Leaf Springs

Post by Haz567 »

Paul:
One of my friends has a hydraulic press which was required to get to get the bushings out of the spring eye on both sides. On the side I am having issue with, this was after I cut the bolt to let the spring drop out. This cut didn't really leave any bad edges as I recall, but if I had been thinking about I would have filed the edge down to help a little.
This bolt, or what remains of it, is what is reallllllly hung in the sleeve that goes thru the frame. The car is on a lift and there is no way that I can think of to get a press in this area. The bolt head has been wrung off (an idiot (me) with a long enough cheater bar can do about anything)
This same friend left just a little bit ago and he had tried acetylene torch and pneumatic hammer, no go. Next planned step is to get really long drill bits (using right angle drive for access) and try to drill out as much as possible, then beat out.
I will google "Rose Bud" to see what that this as mentioned by goldwinghg. Maybe this is what I need to heat the sleeve w/o heating the bolt also.
Regards
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Haz567
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Re: Rear Leaf Springs

Post by Haz567 »

goldwinghg

I will google it, but is a "rose bud" something that will heat the sleeve w/o heating the bolt as much?
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Haz567
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Re: Rear Leaf Springs

Post by Haz567 »

goldwinghg

Googled it, don't know if they used a "rose bud" end or not but did try acetylene torch. Got everything hot enough that old collection of grit, etc. inside frame caught fire, went out, whew!
Yep, it has really been a cluster!
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goldwinghg
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Re: Rear Leaf Springs

Post by goldwinghg »

Can you get a air chisel in there?
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Haz567
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Re: Rear Leaf Springs

Post by Haz567 »

goldwinghg

Had air chisel (although it wasn't a big one) when it was heated.
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Haz567
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Re: Rear Leaf Springs

Post by Haz567 »

Got it Out!!
Had to completely drill thru about 3-1/4" of 7/16" solid bolt with a 3/8" drill before it would finally drive out. Have never seen anything like the way it was hung up, and hope to never have to do it again! It is a really bad spot to get to w/ x-frame on the inside and spring bracket on the outside.
Refurbish of rear springs does make it drive thru the corners better.
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