Fuel tank finish + thanks

[blab]

Hi,

I think about replacing my fuel tank. It has rust on the bottom including the straps. No leaks in that area yet though. And I think I had overspill in the past. Don't remember at what fill level but I don't really trust it anymore.

When I buy a new tank from a parts house it comes as bare metal. OFS says the originals are "anodized". What does that exactly mean? Is the tank aluminum? Alternatively, what type of paint is recommended. OFS lists Zinc paint. Any brand recommendations? So I can try to find an equivalent here. Do you spray it on? Leave the inside bare?

Something else: 20 years after my last technical inspection and 18 years after having a regular street permit, I'm finally back on the road:



Thanks to everyone responding to my questions, you helped make it possible!

[jtschug]

The tank is heavily galvanized. I'm not sure if "adnodized" is accurate, but the tank is steel.

Does your tank have a stone shield? Somebody who has disassembled several parts cars sold me a stone shield, but I'm not sure if it is correct for 1966.

[paulr]

I hope you are able to get a Spectra (Canadian built) tank in Germany, seriously. Your MY64 originally had an extra stone apron added to the bottom of the tank that was intended as protection from road abrasion. This was deleted from production before MY65. I don't know exactly why, but when I took my own 64 original tank apart, I noticed that the apron had allowed moisture to be trapped against that part of the tank body, and it was additionally corroded right in that spot. So, forget about the apron for the future, if you still have one of those.

The Spectra tanks are galvanized steel and it is not common to re-coat them inside or out as they are highly resistant to corrosion, better, I think than OEM. I doubt your new tank will be subject to any more harsh road conditions than you would otherwise subject the body of the car anyway, if that makes sense. The new tanks will far outlast the original tanks, I expect.

The car looks amazing.

[blab]

"Galvanized" was the correct word, sorry. Still, is that something you do?

I don't know if I have a stone shield. So many times under the car, never looked closely.

[blab]

^^^ Thanks.

Great, this looks easier than I thought. I'll get a Spectra tank!

[blab]

There are two tanks for 1964 (rockauto.com):

SPECTRA PREMIUM F37A {#C4SZ9002A} Lock Ring Kit Included Info
To 3/26/1964

SPECTRA PREMIUM F37B {#C4SZ9002B} Lock Ring Kit Included Info
From 3/27/1964

I think I've seen something that this was related to the shield which was dropped during MY64. My date code is Dec. 16, so I'd need F37A (=C4SZ9002A) but since I don't want to re-use the shield anyway, I'll get F37B (=C4SZ9002B), right?

[Rt.146]

Possibly spraying it with that truck bed liner by Rustoleum will give it some added protection. Car looks nice..

[blab]

Thanks! Looks like the Spectra tanks are lead/tin plated, no paint necessary (except undercoating for the original look).

Found the difference between A and B, it is added venting introduced in March 64.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11271&p=67354&hilit ... 7b6#p67354

Should I get the venting although not original for my build date?

[Alan H. Tast]

Exposed tanks typically had sound deadener/undercoating sprayed on them for '63-prior (undercoating was standard practice for T-birds by 1961). Some people leave off the undercoating when replacing them because "it looks neat," but the purpose of the undercoating was to help keep the tank from getting beat up by road debris, and cut down on noise when they got peppered from gravel and rocks. When the tanks moved to between the trunk well and the rear axle for '64, I believe undercoating of the tanks was done for those without the shield (I would think that the shield itself should have been shot on its outer surfaces). We need to review copies of the Body/Trim Assembly manuals for application of undercoating on the tanks for '64-'66, and more specifically need to review if the stone shield was shown in the '64 version and, if so, how the undercoating issue was handled. This may be something we overlooked in the OFS edits back in 2004 and may need to update (if tbird, Fuz and others involved in OFS reviews could look at what we currently have and chime in I'd appreciate it).

The shields were deleted during production because they trapped moisture and rocks/gravel. There were instances where rocks/gravel trapped between the shield and tank wore holes in the tank, creating leaks where there shouldn't be any.

[paulr]

Possibly spraying it with that truck bed liner by Rustoleum will give it some added protection. Car looks nice..

@OP

I often think this would be a good extra step if you are not particular about "originality", especially where no one's looking.

I want to reiterate that the stone apron is a bad idea. My old tank would probably have lasted many years longer if not for the rust pattern perfectly outlined in the shape of the apron. Picture showing my old tank in this thread (see exactly where the stone apron was) viewtopic.php?f=7&t=13243&hilit=gas+tan ... 93a9e4084c

An additional important item. As you remove the old tank, you will learn two things that need attention, neither of which, I think, are anywhere in the literature. The oil cloth blanketing the top of the tank needs to be reused for vibration dampening, and the pressure vent system on top of the new tank will need to be extended and anchored before installation. (Note that, depending the manufacture date of your car, your old tank may or may not have a top vent). This thread has some good pics of the new tank vents and how to restore them per original. This is an important benefit for hot weather gas cap vacuum situation. Good luck.
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11271&hilit=gas+tan ... 93a9e4084c

[paulr]

There are two tanks for 1964 (rockauto.com):

SPECTRA PREMIUM F37A {#C4SZ9002A} Lock Ring Kit Included Info
To 3/26/1964

SPECTRA PREMIUM F37B {#C4SZ9002B} Lock Ring Kit Included Info
From 3/27/1964

I think I've seen something that this was related to the shield which was dropped during MY64. My date code is Dec. 16, so I'd need F37A (=C4SZ9002A) but since I don't want to re-use the shield anyway, I'll get F37B (=C4SZ9002B), right?

I'd contact them. I'm going to guess it has something to do with the 1/16" welded copper vent. Just my guess. You DO want the vent, in any case; can't hurt to confirm that with the manufacturer. Good luck.

[blab]

Yes, it must be the vent. Going to get the "B" version.