engine oil

[duffer]

I went up to Napa Auto parts to get oil for my 56 (312 engine)
I told him i wanted Rotella T 15W-40 and he was shocked. "Your not putting that in there are you?"
I said yes -He said well, that's your choice-
I read on all the Thunderbird sites that this is the correct oil
Why are auto shops so freaked out about this?

[Joe Johnston]

some reasons I can think of:

Its not the most expensive (profitable)
Its not a synthetic or marketed as being "better for high performance engines"
He really doesn't have a clue that this is a flat tappet engine

It would have been interesting to learn what he recommended.

[Oldmics]

I buy Rotella by the 55 gallon drum as I need it for the diesel trucks used in my business along with my antique auto engine requirements.

Rotella has been downgraded as far as the quantity of ZDDP in the recent revisions of the formula.

On my last purchase of a drum (early in 2014) , I contacted the chemists at Shell and asked specifically what the ZDDP count was in the current batch of Rotella.

He informed me that all Rotella has at least 1100 PPM in the oil.The requirement for our flat tappet engines is 1000 PPM.

Rotella is fine. I'm currently getting ready to purchase another barrel. I will again check on the ZDDP count once I receive the barrel.

On a side note,I just fired up a fresh 1957 Mercury 368- M 335 NASCAR engine using the Rotella with no oil concern problems.

Oldmics

[duffer]

He said a plain old 10W30 was good enough.

[paul2748]

I wouldn't go any less than 10W40. 20-50 is better. I use Rotella in two YBlocks with no apparent problem.

He said a plain old 10W30 was good enough.

[motokelowna]

Hello i am new to owning a Thunderbird and would like to know about obviously engine oils .... The old owner used straight 40w in his engine due to the warmer weather in BC and due to this can and would anyone use Slick 50 or any other additive . Thank you for any suggestions ....

[2ndGen]

I'm also a new T-bird owner and a mechanic explained to me I should use a single weight oil as it would protect the engine better. However the lack of detergent in it could cause buildup over time. Link here discusses the pros & cons of different choices: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/c ... hicle.html

[paul2748]

to 2ndgen

Your mechanic is not well informed, and I would get a new mechanic if this is the kind of information he gives out.

You should be using a modern oil, detergent. Better additives, better protection. The reason that YBlocks had so much oiling trouble in the 50's and 60's was partly due to non-detergent oil.The suggestions noted above are very good. I don't even see why they sell non-detergent oil now a-days.

I run Rotella T 15/40 in two of my YBlock cars. One, a 56 Bird, has made two trips to the west coast from the east coast with this oil with zero oiling problems. And this is not a recently rebuilt engine - mileage is unknown.

[paul2748]

I make the same suggestion to you as to 2ndGen. Use a modern oil if the 40 weight is non-detergent. 40 weight is ok if it has detergents. The Rotella oil I use has been used in temperatures from 20 degrees to 100 degrees with zero oiling problems. Another good suggestion is 20-50 brand name oil - like Castrol GTX.

Hello i am new to owning a Thunderbird and would like to know about obviously engine oils .... The old owner used straight 40w in his engine due to the warmer weather in BC and due to this can and would anyone use Slick 50 or any other additive . Thank you for any suggestions ....

[Walt711]

When my 312 was rebuilt, I was told to use Mobil 1 15-50. I'm not sure why. Perhaps the zinc content. That was in 2011. Oil has been leaking from the filter and somewhere else higher up on the engine. I have not been able to locate the specific area. I have tightened my valve covers, the vent tube, and replaced the oil filter adapter. I read that if I used a lighter weight, 10w-40, that would create less pressure and may help the leaking issue. I have not put that oil in the car yet. Are there any thoughts on this?
I also purchased a bottle of Lucas oil additive (zinc). The directions say to run 1000 miles, drain and refill with fresh oil. Will this serve any real purpose?
Thank you in advance.

[paul2748]

Is the Mobile 1 a synthetic? Synthetics seem to find any possible opening.

The subject of zinc additive is a disputed one. If you use a high enough ZDDP content oil like the Rotella, a 10/40 or a 20/50 oil, you should not need a zinc additive. However, if it makes you less apprehensive, go with it. I use Rotella without any additive, got lots of miles on my old engine without any oiling problems.

When my 312 was rebuilt, I was told to use Mobil 1 15-50. I'm not sure why. Perhaps the zinc content. That was in 2011. Oil has been leaking from the filter and somewhere else higher up on the engine. I have not been able to locate the specific area. I have tightened my valve covers, the vent tube, and replaced the oil filter adapter. I read that if I used a lighter weight, 10w-40, that would create less pressure and may help the leaking issue. I have not put that oil in the car yet. Are there any thoughts on this?
I also purchased a bottle of Lucas oil additive (zinc). The directions say to run 1000 miles, drain and refill with fresh oil. Will this serve any real purpose?
Thank you in advance.

[fijidad]

Below is another discussion about Rotella...and what it no longer has. This is getting confusing, just when I'm getting set to fire up my 312 after rebuild....Dan

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/garage/ ... -gone.html

[Joe Johnston]

This is getting confusing, just when I'm getting set to fire up my 312 after rebuild..

Confusing indeed! But no matter what oil you decide to use, add a camshaft break in lube additive - if for no other reason than for peace of mind when starting a fresh engine. Weather the stuff works or not, I don't know but have always thought it was $10 well spent!

[paul2748]

This is an old article. Yes, the ZDDP was reduced around 2007 but the CJ still has 1100 PPM of ZDDP which is more than enough for any flat tapped engine except for a high horsepower racing engine. Info from Shell has confirmed the 1100 PPM early in 2014 per an item posted in another forum I look at..

Think about this: In the 50's and 60's, the oil had less than 700 PPM of ZDDP.

When the reduction in ZDDP in a lot of the oil happened, there was a lot of misinformation. Every one thought that ZDDP was eliminated in just about every motor oil but that is all wrong. A lot of the 10/40 and 20/50 oil still has a 1000 or more PPM of ZDDP.

I think it was Ted Eaton of YBlock engine fame that found the most 10/40 and higher rating oils had enough ZDDP.

Below is another discussion about Rotella...and what it no longer has. This is getting confusing, just when I'm getting set to fire up my 312 after rebuild....Dan

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/garage/ ... -gone.html

[cjc56]

I have been using Lucas Classic Car oil in my cars for sometime. It already has extra zinc and many stablizers that are needed for engines that are not run very often. I use 10w-40. Note that you can not use this oil in newer cars that have a catalic converter.