'62 front disc brake upgrade
Moderator: Wklink
'62 front disc brake upgrade
I am attempting the front disc conversion as well on my '62. I just received my Auto City basic kit and it came complete with the nubs on the calipers that need to be cut/ground. (thanks for the heads up, your PDF will be my bible for the next few weeks....).
My next step is to order up the 9" booster, dual MC, proportioning valve and residual valve. I know which prop and residual valves I'm getting but I'm faltering a little bit on ordering up the SSBC booster and MC.
Does anyone have a SSBC part number for the 9" booster they used? So many websites are not clear wether the one they are selling is single or dual diaphragm.
Same for the MC, websites are often unclear as to the size of the holes that come out of the MC and I want to order up the matching prop. valve.
Has anyone ordered a combination kit of booster and MC ?
I know these are small questions and I should really just ball up and start ordering stuff but I hate to lose time because I ordered the wrong thing.
Any guidance would be appreciated......
My next step is to order up the 9" booster, dual MC, proportioning valve and residual valve. I know which prop and residual valves I'm getting but I'm faltering a little bit on ordering up the SSBC booster and MC.
Does anyone have a SSBC part number for the 9" booster they used? So many websites are not clear wether the one they are selling is single or dual diaphragm.
Same for the MC, websites are often unclear as to the size of the holes that come out of the MC and I want to order up the matching prop. valve.
Has anyone ordered a combination kit of booster and MC ?
I know these are small questions and I should really just ball up and start ordering stuff but I hate to lose time because I ordered the wrong thing.
Any guidance would be appreciated......
- redstangbob
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- Location: 40 miles east of Wixom
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- Posts: 1814
- Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2008 2:58 am
Re: '62 front disc brake upgrade
If you are adventurous enough you may want to look into installing a late model hydroboost system instead of the stock booster unit. I think it was Graeme that did the conversion and he loves it. Lot's of clamping power along with having some brake pedal even when the engine shuts off since the unit has a reservoir.I am attempting the front disc conversion as well on my '62. I just received my Auto City basic kit and it came complete with the nubs on the calipers that need to be cut/ground. (thanks for the heads up, your PDF will be my bible for the next few weeks....).
My next step is to order up the 9" booster, dual MC, proportioning valve and residual valve. I know which prop and residual valves I'm getting but I'm faltering a little bit on ordering up the SSBC booster and MC.
Does anyone have a SSBC part number for the 9" booster they used? So many websites are not clear wether the one they are selling is single or dual diaphragm.
Same for the MC, websites are often unclear as to the size of the holes that come out of the MC and I want to order up the matching prop. valve.
Has anyone ordered a combination kit of booster and MC ?
I know these are small questions and I should really just ball up and start ordering stuff but I hate to lose time because I ordered the wrong thing.
Any guidance would be appreciated......
John
Professional Pic Whore
Hey -
So on the 9" booster, you want to use a single diaphragm unit. Dual Diaphragm units are usually longer and have a visible step-down from back to front.
Example single diaphragm 9" unit:
http://ts3.mm.bing.net/th?id=HN.6080393 ... =1&pid=1.7
Equivalent dual diaphragm unit:
http://ts2.mm.bing.net/th?id=HN.6080287 ... =1&pid=1.7
The reason you want to go single, is that its unlikely you will have room for the longer dual diaphragm unit and the master cylinder. With the single 9" unit and the corvette style MC, I have just a hair of space before I'd hit the shock tower. If you can find a short MC that still supports at least front disk, rear drum, then you may be able to fit the Dial diaphragm unit.
So on the 9" booster, you want to use a single diaphragm unit. Dual Diaphragm units are usually longer and have a visible step-down from back to front.
Example single diaphragm 9" unit:
http://ts3.mm.bing.net/th?id=HN.6080393 ... =1&pid=1.7
Equivalent dual diaphragm unit:
http://ts2.mm.bing.net/th?id=HN.6080287 ... =1&pid=1.7
The reason you want to go single, is that its unlikely you will have room for the longer dual diaphragm unit and the master cylinder. With the single 9" unit and the corvette style MC, I have just a hair of space before I'd hit the shock tower. If you can find a short MC that still supports at least front disk, rear drum, then you may be able to fit the Dial diaphragm unit.
Current Classic Garage (or money pits):
1957 Chevy Belair
1963 Thunderbird
1978 Corvette
1979 Ford F250
Prior Money Pits:
1976 Camaro
1983 Jaguar XJ6 (converted)
1966 Cadillac
1957 Chevy Belair
1963 Thunderbird
1978 Corvette
1979 Ford F250
Prior Money Pits:
1976 Camaro
1983 Jaguar XJ6 (converted)
1966 Cadillac
I'm ready to install 4 wheel disc on my 62 and would like to know the factory application for the booster as posted pics can be deceiving. To me a mustang booster looks right as it has the four mounting studs and the eyelet on the push rod. Plan on using a CCP master as tbey say it was a lower profile. Any one know for sure?
Thanks for the links and the visual difference. I thought that was the case but now I'm sure. Time to get a cracking. I'll just be happy to have brakes again and a dual MC I had a wheel cylinder blow 100 miles out on the way to a car show and my foot went to the floor. I would like to avoid that in the future
Your foot will still go to the floor if you spring a leak. You'll have a little brake left compared to no brakes with the single.PaulS wrote:Thanks for the links and the visual difference. I thought that was the case but now I'm sure. Time to get a cracking. I'll just be happy to have brakes again and a dual MC I had a wheel cylinder blow 100 miles out on the way to a car show and my foot went to the floor. I would like to avoid that in the future
Bingo. Even with a combination valve that's supposed to cut off a circuit with no pressure, your foot goes to the floor and there's very little braking power. Happened to me more than once.Your foot will still go to the floor if you spring a leak. You'll have a little brake left compared to no brakes with the single.
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- Posts: 1814
- Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2008 2:58 am
Hence one more reason that a late model Hydroboost makes sense...Thanks for the links and the visual difference. I thought that was the case but now I'm sure. Time to get a cracking. I'll just be happy to have brakes again and a dual MC I had a wheel cylinder blow 100 miles out on the way to a car show and my foot went to the floor. I would like to avoid that in the future
John
Professional Pic Whore
Cant argue with how it works but it looks like a lot of work to install it :)novanutcase wrote:Hence one more reason that a late model Hydroboost makes sense...Thanks for the links and the visual difference. I thought that was the case but now I'm sure. Time to get a cracking. I'll just be happy to have brakes again and a dual MC I had a wheel cylinder blow 100 miles out on the way to a car show and my foot went to the floor. I would like to avoid that in the future
John
It is a lot of work but...you only live once!!Cant argue with how it works but it looks like a lot of work to install it :)
My hydroboost is really good now, I had the 1 1/8" master cylinder but after locking up the wheels easily once to often I changed to a 1" master which is not as aggressive. Stops just as well but with more feel, more like a modern braking system.
Graeme
1962 Hardtop - in Melbourne, Australia