Well I finally got the car flat bedded to the finally completed new garage. It was relatively simple. I also brought over all the parts that were collected over the years. Nothing exciting in the parts. One cool thing was a grille badge.
I got the car dropped off and it needed a bath and to be cleaned out of all the anti-rodent supplies. The car has not been on the road since 1986 and when my father in law bought it he only put 200 miles on the 64,000 and then parked it after getting new Goodyear tires installed. The car came with paperwork as far back as 1959 and from what I can tell was never repainted out side of some touch up from scratches. The previous owner was a woman from Maryland that sold parts back in the 70ies and had a business called Thunderbird Ranch or Farm?
After the bath!
The car needs some TLC and the rear diff pinion seal leaks. After I washed it the drivers door had a really good leak! So besides brakes, new gas tank that was included, tune up, oil change and the typical sitting issues I hope to get her running and see if the transmission leaks.......now the fun shall begin!
You are correct, some knucklehead damaged your valve cover. It may be possible to file between the fins then rebuff to help hide the damage. Or switch it with the passenger side and the damage would be near the firewall and not noticed as much.
Why that is just...................GREAT! I am thinking it was a metal line running near by that made someone not move the line but ruin a valve cover..........
I started the partial tear down to look things over. I ordered parts for the brakes and fuel. I removed the valve covers and carb. The carb was clean inside the bowls and in general. I do have two rebuild kits and 3 spare 4150s to use. The top end of the engine looks good too. I did notice a few things when I was taking parts off. It had a 4-blade fan on the water pump and the car came with a 7-blade fan. Is the 4-blade fine since I assume that was stock? The power steering hose hits the upper A-Arm and looks like there is a funky adaptor on it in my opinion. Need some input on that one. I did go to NAPA and ordered a battery which was only $105.00 so that was a blessing!
Power Steering Hoses not in the clamp?
Power Steering Hose Hitting A-Arm & Fittings?
The bracket hanging loose is part of the power steering hose retainer. The bracket is made from 3 pieces, a base which is bolted to the car (which you probably have, a rubber grommet holding both hoses, and the piece you show hanging. I would guess the loose piece just came unsnapped from the base and you only need to reconnect it. Once you see it in the parts diagrams you will recognize everything and be able to reinstall it.
The radiator hose may just need to be repositioned a bit. Although you have the correct hose clamps, I have had trouble keeping them tight only because the reproductions were of lesser quality than the original equipment. Just keep checking the hoses for leaks.
4 blade is original. Do not trust the in dash temp gauge. If you think it is reading high, confirm with a IR con-tactless thermometer aimed at the thermostat housing. These gauges are frequently inaccurate. I have no problems with a 4 blade fan.
Consider changing the rubber A-arm bushings in the future. If you do mark the location of the parts before removing because the inner shaft can only be correctly installed one way.
Nice clean looking engine bay! Should be able to have it on the road and enjoying it very soon!
PLEASE invest a few bucks and buy all the shop manuals for your car. Definitely will save you much time and be an education.
55-57 VTCI Forum Moderator
57 Inca Gold-Colonial White
63SR Silver Mink
I think for the price I'm going to replace the power steering hoses too. I see too many different hose materials; smoothed and with lines. I also noticed the front shocks are done. The groan and don't come right back up when pushed down. I agree at some point this spring the suspension bushings will be replaced. I do some powder from coolant on the top hoses and the bypass hose on the water pump to intake. I do plan on turning the engine over by hand to make sure valves are not stuck. Besides all that this is a cake walk compared to a british car!
Please consider pulling the spark plugs and adding penetrating oil into the cylinders. PB Plaster, Marvel Mystery Oil are good. Not really necessary, but I don't like dry rings sliding on smooth cylinder walls when turning an engine over after sitting for a long time. The only downside is excessive smoke for a few minutes after starting - better than scored cyl walls!
Two more things to check or just replace.
1 - the flex fuel line between the fuel pump and the steel line on the frame.
they tend to swell internally and restrict gas flow.
2 - the three rubber flex brake hoses also tend to swell internally and should be replaced periodically
PLEASE invest a few bucks and buy all the shop manuals for your car. Definitely will save you much time and be an education.
55-57 VTCI Forum Moderator
57 Inca Gold-Colonial White
63SR Silver Mink
So I have a quick question and I hope to get a simple answer. On the top of the front bowl on the Holley carb that was on the car is a spring loaded arm that works off the front throttle shaft that when put into a certain position opens a hole up on the top of the front bowl. Why is this and is it necessary? I have 3 other Holley 4150s that I think two of them have this deleted on the front bowl. Can I go with out the hole?
