I have a 62HT that was converted from the stock generator to alternator a while back. I am starting to think my voltage regulator is starting to go bad (headlights tend to flutter from brighter to slightly dimmer) so I am considering picking up a backup regulator for just in case.
I was wondering if a 63 regulator would work in the 62's or is there some significant changes that need to be made. I haven't looked at the regulator in the car to see what is there now or what is on the alternator that was added on. Eventually I would like to return the car to stock config with the exception of the alternator setup from a 63.
Voltage regulator question
Moderator: ABQTBird
Voltage regulator question
Thomas Cofield
1962 Hardtop, 'Thumper' Red/Black
1962 Hardtop, 'The Survivor' White/Red
VTCI-PNW
RSSVTCI
1962 Hardtop, 'Thumper' Red/Black
1962 Hardtop, 'The Survivor' White/Red
VTCI-PNW
RSSVTCI
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mike harmon
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 2:22 am
- Location: Redlands, CA
Normally the battery condition is the first indication of problems or not- a battery in good condition should be dry on top and have a resting (engine not running and everything off) voltage of around 13 to 13.5 volts, 14.5 max for a new large capacity battery. There should be no evidence of a boiling battery (overcharging due to bad battery or too high a regulator setting), such as a lot of moisture around the battery's vents and excessive corrosion on metal near the vents. With an alternator equipped car, the dash (idiot) light should never come on at idle, unless every accessory is on, and then it should only flicker slightly.
Before you can do anything you've got to see what's under the hood. It really depends upon what type of alternator was used in the conversion, as there a couple of types. A popular one because of its simplicity is the internally regulated "single wire" type such as the Delco used up thru older 70's GM stuff... one heavy guage wire comes out of it and goes to the battery, and a smaller guage wire is connected thru the harness to ground. As the name states, the regulator is inside the alternator. The other is the externally regulated type.
If it's a "single wire" type and it has a problem, best thing to do is get a rebuilt replacement. A competent auto electrical shop can test the alternator for proper operation. If it's externally regulated, the regulator will have 4 wires- "F" (field), "S" (neutral), "B" (battery), and "I" (indicator or idiot light). The generator-equipped systems have a 3-wire regulator. If what you have now is a 4-wire regulator, a regulator from a '63 may work. The only thing to watch for is the amperage output level of the alternator, in that the regulator has to have a capacity handle it. According to the Shop Manual, the '63's alternator has an output of 450 watts, or 30 amps at 14.7 volts. While the manual has some good photos of what the alternator looks like, no part numbers are given.
The good news on the external regulators is that there is now a solid state (electronic) replacement that can be used instead of the electro-mechanical type. No moving points to go south on you. Both types of regulators are available thru some of the TBird catalogue suppliers as well as your better non-discount auto parts stores. "Standard" is a good brand... buy the best you can, even though it will cost far more than the cheap grade.
Your symptoms indicate burned/pitted or dirty points and/or out-of-adjustment or weak springs on an external electo-mechanical regulator. The points within the regulator are controlled by spring tension against pull from an electromagnet. The voltage control points open and close rapidly to control output levels, and will appear as though they are vibrating... you will see a small flickering blue arc between the points (with the cover off, of course). If they are burned or dirty the electrical contact will be poor, resulting in the flickering you see when demand is high such as when the headlights are on. Sometimes the points can be cleaned and polished with used fine emery cloth or fine used sandpaper, but that's only an interim measure.
Keeping the alternator system is a good idea, particularly if the car has AC. At idle and creeping speeds in traffic, the generator-equipped cars can't keep up with the electrical current demand of the compressor clutch and the fan, and the batteries suffer. Which means your checkbook will suffer. The AC's fan speed will drop off due to lower voltage levels, meaning occupants will suffer. If you have a spouse or opposite-sex friend in the car you will suffer twice, at a minimum.
Before you can do anything you've got to see what's under the hood. It really depends upon what type of alternator was used in the conversion, as there a couple of types. A popular one because of its simplicity is the internally regulated "single wire" type such as the Delco used up thru older 70's GM stuff... one heavy guage wire comes out of it and goes to the battery, and a smaller guage wire is connected thru the harness to ground. As the name states, the regulator is inside the alternator. The other is the externally regulated type.
If it's a "single wire" type and it has a problem, best thing to do is get a rebuilt replacement. A competent auto electrical shop can test the alternator for proper operation. If it's externally regulated, the regulator will have 4 wires- "F" (field), "S" (neutral), "B" (battery), and "I" (indicator or idiot light). The generator-equipped systems have a 3-wire regulator. If what you have now is a 4-wire regulator, a regulator from a '63 may work. The only thing to watch for is the amperage output level of the alternator, in that the regulator has to have a capacity handle it. According to the Shop Manual, the '63's alternator has an output of 450 watts, or 30 amps at 14.7 volts. While the manual has some good photos of what the alternator looks like, no part numbers are given.
The good news on the external regulators is that there is now a solid state (electronic) replacement that can be used instead of the electro-mechanical type. No moving points to go south on you. Both types of regulators are available thru some of the TBird catalogue suppliers as well as your better non-discount auto parts stores. "Standard" is a good brand... buy the best you can, even though it will cost far more than the cheap grade.
Your symptoms indicate burned/pitted or dirty points and/or out-of-adjustment or weak springs on an external electo-mechanical regulator. The points within the regulator are controlled by spring tension against pull from an electromagnet. The voltage control points open and close rapidly to control output levels, and will appear as though they are vibrating... you will see a small flickering blue arc between the points (with the cover off, of course). If they are burned or dirty the electrical contact will be poor, resulting in the flickering you see when demand is high such as when the headlights are on. Sometimes the points can be cleaned and polished with used fine emery cloth or fine used sandpaper, but that's only an interim measure.
Keeping the alternator system is a good idea, particularly if the car has AC. At idle and creeping speeds in traffic, the generator-equipped cars can't keep up with the electrical current demand of the compressor clutch and the fan, and the batteries suffer. Which means your checkbook will suffer. The AC's fan speed will drop off due to lower voltage levels, meaning occupants will suffer. If you have a spouse or opposite-sex friend in the car you will suffer twice, at a minimum.
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T-Bird-Art
- Posts: 199
- Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2004 6:55 pm
- Location: Daytona Beach, Florida
Highly recommend Solid State Regulators for reliability. Besides very few currently practicing mechanics have even seen the guts of the old regulators. I purposely buy Sears Diehard batteries so I can get a Free Electrical Check ( at some stores) at the first sign of electrical trouble. Sears equipment should see & diagnoise flickering. If Sears says the Alternator/Regulator/Starter/Battery/coil/points/condenser are OK then you got to find it yourself. 1st try at self diagnosis: Lift the hood at sundown and look for sparks jumping to Ground particularily around the Ignition coil.