Putting the 64 on a diet.
Moderator: redstangbob
Putting the 64 on a diet.
This will not be a concourse car. It was purchased as a hot rod project. What, if any steps have you guys taken for weight savings.
That said, I want to keep a near stock appearance to the body. I want to keep the FE block, Heat and AC. I do plan on shaving the door handles but solenoids offset the weight and no savings there.
Current thoughts are coatings vs. insulation under the carpet. Speed holes in non structural area. Fixed seat mounts up front. Coil overs in the rear. Remove skirts and emblems. Aluminum drive shaft and third member.
Maybe shave the drip rails? X bracing behind door panels and rear seat could be dimple died to retain integrity and be not seen.
The goal is 3300# Is it realistic without spending a fortune on fiberglass panels? Lexan or plexiglass are not an option. All input welcome.
That said, I want to keep a near stock appearance to the body. I want to keep the FE block, Heat and AC. I do plan on shaving the door handles but solenoids offset the weight and no savings there.
Current thoughts are coatings vs. insulation under the carpet. Speed holes in non structural area. Fixed seat mounts up front. Coil overs in the rear. Remove skirts and emblems. Aluminum drive shaft and third member.
Maybe shave the drip rails? X bracing behind door panels and rear seat could be dimple died to retain integrity and be not seen.
The goal is 3300# Is it realistic without spending a fortune on fiberglass panels? Lexan or plexiglass are not an option. All input welcome.
Did you ever stop to think and forget to start again?
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- Joined: Wed Sep 09, 2009 11:41 pm
- Location: Minooka Il
I am under the impression that the bird has a curb weight of 4200#. If correct and I lose 200 in the motor with heads and intake. Thats 700 left and the place I start asking for ideas. Trying to brain storm this with others for ideas. Some will be good some not so. I do not think its out of the question.
Example My rock crawler has larger axles and 38" tires on bead lock wheels 32 bolts per wheel. Custom bumpers and sliders out of 2x4x1/4" tube. 140 ' of 1 3/4 .120 wall roll cage tubing. 9000# winch, 1 ton Tie rod ends in 1 1/2" .250 wall for steering with a hydraulic ram. Transfer case skid plate is 1/4". Diff covers made of 3/8" plate. and 3/16" quarter panel guards. With all that and a tool box I am 200# over original curb weight. That's less than the weight of 2 tires. I am very familiar with Jeeps but new to the birds so this is why I ask here.
I bet my drip rails have 4#s of seam sealer alone.
Example My rock crawler has larger axles and 38" tires on bead lock wheels 32 bolts per wheel. Custom bumpers and sliders out of 2x4x1/4" tube. 140 ' of 1 3/4 .120 wall roll cage tubing. 9000# winch, 1 ton Tie rod ends in 1 1/2" .250 wall for steering with a hydraulic ram. Transfer case skid plate is 1/4". Diff covers made of 3/8" plate. and 3/16" quarter panel guards. With all that and a tool box I am 200# over original curb weight. That's less than the weight of 2 tires. I am very familiar with Jeeps but new to the birds so this is why I ask here.
I bet my drip rails have 4#s of seam sealer alone.
Did you ever stop to think and forget to start again?
Curb weight of a '64 hardtop is given as 4431 lbs. (they gained a couple hundred pounds with the new body style).I am under the impression that the bird has a curb weight of 4200#
Currently Birdless....we'll see how long that lasts!
Past Birds: 1962 Hardtop Corinthian White "The Survivor"
1964 Hardtop Gunmetal Gray "60Fore"
1986 Turbo Coupe Regatta Blue
Past Birds: 1962 Hardtop Corinthian White "The Survivor"
1964 Hardtop Gunmetal Gray "60Fore"
1986 Turbo Coupe Regatta Blue
I don't know how you feel about losing your heat and ac if you have it...
All the stuff under the dash probly weighs close to a hundred pounds...
Also you may want to consider losing the dash altogether, get some gauges and build a lightweight dash of some sort -that would prolly save 50 pounds or so
All the stuff under the dash probly weighs close to a hundred pounds...
Also you may want to consider losing the dash altogether, get some gauges and build a lightweight dash of some sort -that would prolly save 50 pounds or so
sseebart wrote:If you have electric seats and windows, switch to manually operated--but still talking drops in the ocean. Have you considered a roadster?
As in removing the top? Manual window are on the list. as well as fixed seat mounts.
6t6 wrote:I don't know how you feel about losing your heat and ac if you have it...
All the stuff under the dash probly weighs close to a hundred pounds...
Also you may want to consider losing the dash altogether, get some gauges and build a lightweight dash of some sort -that would prolly save 50 pounds or so
I'm not looking to gut the car. In fact, I want Joe average to not notice the changes. I have no knowledge of whats behind the dash. I would bet the squirrel cage is metal and could be fitted with a lighter plastic. The ac compressor changed to an aluminum body Sanden type instead of the big heavy York. Point being almost everything in this old car needs attention. Its not like I want to rip out good working components for the sake of weight saving. Just addressing the weight issue as I build. A little here and there all add up in the end. 1 fender replacement may save 10# of Bondo.
Did you ever stop to think and forget to start again?
Yes, as in removing the top. You would gain some weight back in additional bracing, but would lose the top, all but the windshield (and wing) glass and all the window regulators.
Saw it done by Chip Foose on Overhaulin':
I would love to do this with my '64, but not sure I'm ready for the cost.
~Steve
Saw it done by Chip Foose on Overhaulin':
I would love to do this with my '64, but not sure I'm ready for the cost.
~Steve