55 Steering wheel restoration

[RossL]

My TBird blue wheel has spider cracks everywhere. I've been getting quotes form $800/900 to "repair" and refinish to $2,100 to recast the wheel with new material.

Has anyone had their wheel restored? Which method and how long has it held up?

[ward 57]

How deep are the cracks? Can they be sanded out? This can be a DIY project and save yourself some big bucks. The color match may be the hardest part. You might check this out.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_ ... ing+wheel+

[MarkR]

If you want to do it yourself, 20 years ago I used the Steering Wheel repair kit from POR 15. Worked well. I’m not seeing it being offered today but their Steering Wheel epoxy is still available. I do see Eastwood has what looks like a comprehensive repair kit that’s very similar.
As for a color match, any automotive paint supplier can make up a spray can to match your current wheel color. Take it to them before you begin the work. If your wheel is too faded for a match take a piece of interior upholstery such as the kick panel windlace. I used the small floor vinyl piece from behind the seat.

[Alan H. Tast]

Don't forget that big parts that determine success or failure of DIY steering wheel restoration are filing V-grooves in all of the cracks and filling them with a material that has similar expansion/contraction properties to the Tenite or similar plastics used from the mid-'50s-on. Not only that, thorough cleaning and removal of oils from hands is important. Over time even the best-prepared epoxy repairs will come loose and fall out. Repainting the wheel will not yield the exact OEM finish that the cast plastic has, but sometimes restoration is a series of tradeoffs between looking like new and preserving what's there.

Recasting the wheel in plastic would be my method of choice if I had an unlimited budget and/or a really bad wheel. Given the not-so-rare supply of original and restorable steering wheels out there, a tradeoff of time/labor/materials versus using a high-quality reproduction wheel (if one was available) would be a consideration for me. Then again, I'm not leaving anything for my nieces and nephews to in inherit...

[MarkR]

Don't forget that big parts that determine success or failure of DIY steering wheel restoration are filing V-grooves in all of the cracks and filling them with a material that has similar expansion/contraction properties to the Tenite or similar plastics used from the mid-'50s-on. Not only that, thorough cleaning and removal of oils from hands is important. Over time even the best-prepared epoxy repairs will come loose and fall out. Repainting the wheel will not yield the exact OEM finish that the cast plastic has, but sometimes restoration is a series of tradeoffs between looking like new and preserving what's there.

Recasting the wheel in plastic would be my method of choice if I had an unlimited budget and/or a really bad wheel. Given the not-so-rare supply of original and restorable steering wheels out there, a tradeoff of time/labor/materials versus using a high-quality reproduction wheel (if one was available) would be a consideration for me. Then again, I'm not leaving anything for my nieces and nephews to in inherit...

Well said.
I’ve restored only two 55-57 steering wheels. Both times using the (apparently unavailable now) POR 15 kit. It is a somewhat rewarding process and a real money saver. The 57 we had for about 3 years and the steering wheel still looked new in colonial white with several coats of clear. The 55 is going on 21 years. I did the steering wheel with several coats of spray enamel and several clear coats. I’ve resprayed it three times since then. One of those times I had it off anyway for turn signal switch work. Then two years ago due to arthritic thumbs I made up a color matched lace on steering wheel cover for easier grip. Yep, manual steering. Actually wish I’d done it much sooner. Huge difference. These are very skinny wheels.
I was happy. The results were fine and under a 100 bucks. None of my kids are interested in the car.

[MarkR]

Don't forget that big parts that determine success or failure of DIY steering wheel restoration are filing V-grooves in all of the cracks and filling them with a material that has similar expansion/contraction properties to the Tenite or similar plastics used from the mid-'50s-on. Not only that, thorough cleaning and removal of oils from hands is important. Over time even the best-prepared epoxy repairs will come loose and fall out. Repainting the wheel will not yield the exact OEM finish that the cast plastic has, but sometimes restoration is a series of tradeoffs between looking like new and preserving what's there.

Recasting the wheel in plastic would be my method of choice if I had an unlimited budget and/or a really bad wheel. Given the not-so-rare supply of original and restorable steering wheels out there, a tradeoff of time/labor/materials versus using a high-quality reproduction wheel (if one was available) would be a consideration for me. Then again, I'm not leaving anything for my nieces and nephews to in inherit...

Well said.
I’ve restored only two 55-57 steering wheels. Both times using the (apparently unavailable now) POR 15 kit. It is a somewhat rewarding process and a real money saver. The 57 we had for about 3 years and the steering wheel still looked new in colonial white with several coats of clear when we sold it.The 55 is going on 21 years. I did the steering wheel with several coats of spray enamel and several clear coats. I’ve resprayed it three times since then. One of those times I had it off anyway for turn signal switch work. Then two years ago due to arthritic thumbs I made up a color matched lace on steering wheel cover for easier grip. Yep, manual steering. Actually wish I’d done it much sooner. Huge difference. These are very skinny wheels.
I was happy with both restorations, results were fine and under a 100 bucks. None of my kids are interested in the car anyway.

[RossL]

I think there are too many small cracks (close together) to cut into them and fill them. The 55 wheel has notches on the bottom half that might be difficult to fill around. Has anyone done this to a wheel that looks like mine?


Wouldn't the color match the exterior of the car (Thunderbird blue)?

[ward 57]

I think there are too many small cracks (close together) to cut into them and fill them. The 55 wheel has notches on the bottom half that might be difficult to fill around. Has anyone done this to a wheel that looks like mine?


Wouldn't the color match the exterior of the car (Thunderbird blue)?

It should be the color of the interior.

[Joe Johnston]

I saw your pictures and having also repaired and painted a couple of these steering wheels, I feel you have 3 choices.

A-install a leather steering wheel cover (cheapest and quick)

B-thoroughly clean, scuff and repaint with high quality automotive paint with several clear coats like MarkR (and I) have done. The clear coat is the key to success as it is wear layer, provides protection and will keep it looking much better for a long time. Do not use cheap spray-can paint, it must be quality a 2-part color coat and 2-part clear for durability like an epoxy or urethane product. Bear in mind, this is a cosmetic improvement and will not remove the cracks but will only cover them.

C-obviously the best and most expensive is a complete professional recasting and restoration.

As Alan Tast said, "Repainting the wheel will not yield the exact OEM finish that the cast plastic has, but sometimes restoration is a series of tradeoffs between looking like new and preserving what's there." Only you can decide which way to go.

[RossL]

I will try painting mine. If it doesn’t hold up I will get it recast

Is there a good primer sealer that I should try?

[55blacktie]

You might consider using Seymour PBE Flexible Primer. Although I've only used it on cast iron, it can be used on hard plastic. I think it will work as well as any to fill in cracks, covers well, and dries quickly.

[Joe Johnston]

As for a primer sealer, I would only use the same brand of products from start to finish. So, work it backwards. Go to your automotive paint supplier and ask what primer sealer you need for the brand of 2-part paint and clear you intend to use. Sometimes mixing brands works, sometimes it doesn't.
Save a few bucks and take a chance of starting over if something goes south or go with one product line. Up to you.

[RossL]

As for a primer sealer, I would only use the same brand of products from start to finish. So, work it backwards. Go to your automotive paint supplier and ask what primer sealer you need for the brand of 2-part paint and clear you intend to use. Sometimes mixing brands works, sometimes it doesn't.
Save a few bucks and take a chance of starting over if something goes south or go with one product line. Up to you.

Good pointy, I will go to a bodyshop supply shop and buy everything from one manufacturer. The color of my wheel is the same as the exterior and bottom of my dash which is Thunderbird blue. Is there a primer that is thicker that will fill the stress cracks, or will any primer/sealer work?

[MarkR]

Since you are going to pull the wheel, take it with you to the paint supplier and see what they suggest for materials.
To be correct the wheel should be the interior turquoise. A rear quarter panel windlace is easy to remove for a color match.