Removing Brake Light Switch

[55blacktie]

I attempted to remove the brake-light switch on my 55 and intend to replace it with a 1/8 npt plug. I will be installing an adjustable mechanical switch. Unfortunately, the switch wouldn't budge when I attempted to loosen it. The switch could very well be the original and has never been removed. I considered leaving the switch in place, but someone posted that they have been known to leak.

[MarkR]

Just my experience here. Of course any connection can leak but on my 55 that switch has never leaked. I installed the mechanical brake light switch four years ago and left the original for looks. No problems so far.

[ward 57]

Soak it in penetrating oil and let it sit. No hurry. Just slowly work it. If you have bypassed it with a mechanical switch I'd leave it be especially if it's not leaking. I still use the hydraulic switch, replaced it 30yrs ago and it works great. Very little pressure turns it on. You just have to fill the hollow in the switch with fluid and stir it around to get the air out before installing and it will serve you well.

[paul2748]

When I went to a mechanical switch I left the old switch in place. been about 10 years and no leaks yet. Did the same with my 54 Ford with the same result. Way over ten years.

[55blacktie]

Sounds like I better leave well enough alone, thanks.

[Joe Johnston]

Although something like the brake system is very important, I certainly do not want anyone to be accused of "overthinking" this issue, as we all have to be within our own comfort level. It is not complicated. These pressure operated switches WILL fail, at some point in time! It's a fact. It's a mechanical part and all mechanical and all electronic parts fail at some point. But when? That said, the original switches lasted decades for millions of pedal applications with no problems (nearly 100% of the time). After 50 or 60 years many are still functioning properly, including my own. Will it fail the next time I hit the brakes?????????? Who knows? The current replacements are a different story and quality is not near what it should be, especially if silicone brake fluid is used.

So - what do we do?????
- If you wish to retain a pressure activated switch, inspect it every time the hood is up. I recommend a battery disconnect switch and always disconnect my batteries every time I park my cars. When reconnecting the battery before starting, just look at the pressure switch. It's a simple task, not rocket science. If is shows signs of leaking, stay home! Then replace the switch or remove and add a pipe plug and a mechanically activated switch on the pedal.
- if you replace with a mechanical switch, the fact that the potential hydraulic failure is lessened, and might give you peace of mind. Might not, its your car, your choice. No right answer for everyone.
- the original quality parts in the system are nearly failure proof, the cheap crap we are faced with buying is the problem.
Do what suits you, but do look for leaks, and test the brakes before you back out of the garage. We are dealing with designs that are 70 years old, and constant surveillance is imperative!
Enjoy the ride (safely)!

[Jimntempe]

Sounds like I better leave well enough alone, thanks.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Every "joint" and every seal in the brake system has the potential to leak. That brake switch is just one of them. If it's not leaking why mess with it.

[seany-boy]

so just my experience , as per my recent thread. My pressure switch failed not long after I bought the car (the brake lights stopped working) and I replaced it with a current repo, probably about 8 years ago. After only approx 2 years the new switch exhibited similar problems (possibly some dirt in the brake fluid) and no brake lights soI decided to install the mechanical brake light switch from Casco. I left the pressure switch and wiring in place as it looked original and gave me a backup if it ever worked.
I recently lost pedal, as per other thread, and caused me some concern and a bit of damage. The pressure switch was leaking quite badly when the pedal was pushed. (also found a master cylinder leak but that was likely there for some time). I have now replaced the pressure switch with a plug and definitely would recommend doing that, one time of little or now pedal is more than enough on a slope.
Now the there interesting thing I found, adding to Joe's post above regarding battery disconnect, if the pressure switch is left intact the Casco switch seems to get inserted on the return wire from the pressure switch and the pressure switch is still 'hot', the amount of fluid leaking when pressed the pedal and was not moving was enough to cause smoke to rise from the fluid shorting across the switch making me disconnect the battery in a hurry.
So 2 or 3 apparently very unique issues combined left me with no doubt the repo switches at least should be removed and plugged if a mechanical switch is installed.- just my experience.