Replacement VIN Tag

[fijidad]

I know there was information about how to order a replacement VIN tag, but I was unable to find it in the archives.

Can someone shoot me the name and link of the company that performs this work please?

Mine is present but very scratched up and I'd like a more presentable one.

Thanks.

[ICON 1956]

Here you go. I had Martiauto make me a new data plate. Contact them on the web site.
https://www.martiauto.com/tags.cfm

[1957Birdman]

Just for the record, the 55-57 T-Birds did not have VIN tag or VIN number. The tag on the firewall is called either a data plate or patent plate, which has the car's serial number. That number is stamped on the frame in 3 places.
VIN numbers were required by law starting in 1981.
Lew Bachman
1957 Thunderbird

[ward 57]

That is true. You can't even do a vehicle search on any of the car history sites for anything older. After that they required more information such as the manufacturer ID and other info.

[fijidad]

Excellent information all. Thanks very much.

[MarkR]

According to CTCI the first style data plate was used in 55, 56 and until mid April 57. Then the smaller plate was used. The later plate did not have the scheduled item number or destination code however it did have the transmission used and rear axle ratio. To me destination code is always a fun and useful piece of information. Especially on our 55 and no invoice available. At least with that code we know it shipped to Omaha.

[ICON 1956]

The original data plate was scratched, So I had Marti fabricate a duplicate. I followed the instruction on the web site. It took approx 6 weeks to get. I have the original placed in a safe place with the original invoice.

[onepyramid]

If your original data plate is not in too bad of shape, you can order a decal to make it look much better. Page 35 of the CASCO catalog; $1.50.
Just soak it in warm water until it loosens and then slide it right onto the plate and let it dry. I ordered two, just in case I screwed one up...so now I have an extra one. Before and after pics of my data plate....

[ward 57]

Mine is in the same condition yours was. I got the decal but couldn't get it to line up with the original markings. Looked worse than leaving it alone. How did you get the original markings off so you had a clean plate on which to put on the decal? I also ordered another decal in anticipation of finding a way to get the plate clean for application.

[ICON 1956]

Looks good !

[Jimntempe]

Mine is in the same condition yours was. I got the decal but couldn't get it to line up with the original markings. Looked worse than leaving it alone. How did you get the original markings off so you had a clean plate on which to put on the decal? I also ordered another decal in anticipation of finding a way to get the plate clean for application.

Mine wasn't too bad and I thought I would clean it a bit with a rag with a bit of brake cleaner on it. If you want to clean yours of all the black paint, use some brake cleaner. It cleaned everything off mine slick as a whistle... which was not my intent. I put one of those decals over it and had no trouble lining it up. It's the kind you soak in water, slide off the cardboard and onto the place you want it. For a short while it stays wet and you can slide it into position and work any bubble out. They are cheap so order two of them just in case.

Before and after (don't know why it's upside down in the upload)

[ward 57]

Who would have thought BreaKleen would take that off. I have alcohol & mineral spirits but will try that. One thing I did learn is to cut out the area of the decal that goes over the raised stampings first. I'll try it out. when taking off the failed attempt it just flaked off so maybe I'll try a little shellac or clear lacquer over it to preserve it as I believe the original was a paint and not a decal.

[Jimntempe]

Who would have thought BreaKleen would take that off. I have alcohol & mineral spirits but will try that. One thing I did learn is to cut out the area of the decal that goes over the raised stampings first. I'll try it out. when taking off the failed attempt it just flaked off so maybe I'll try a little shellac or clear lacquer over it to preserve it as I believe the original was a paint and not a decal.

I don't recall any problem whatsoever with the raised stampings interfering with positioning and getting it flat. I just took a look at my spare unused one. It looks like those areas are NOT cut out. Since mine went on without it being cut out and worked fine I would offer this caution... on the upper right there is a very small piece of the decal which, if you make the cutout next to it, will wind up unsupported except at it's very bottom. That might make it very hard to get that little corner tab positioned straight or on these thin decals it might simply detach entirely when you go to lay it down and work the bubbles out. On other similar decals to these I've had a couple simply come apart due to the stress of installation and bubble squeeze out. IAC, order two or more since the shipping should be the same for 1 to 100 of them.

[ward 57]

I guess I don't see how you could get the clear part of the decal to conform to the raised characters. Maybe cut that part out when its dry in case I need to take a rubbing. I think using a sponge to get the bubbles & wrinkles out. It is a pain to work around the hood release mechanism.

[Rusty57]

One trick I have learned over the years is that sometimes a little extra time and effort to eliminate obstacles really makes life easier.

For example, if I know that it will be more than a 10 minute job or requires clear access to do good work under the dash, I often will spend the little bit of extra time upfront to remove the front seat in any car.

I agree that clear access to the serial plate would be a real plus when installing this decal. I would strongly consider marking and removing the right side hood release and at least loosening the left side so the ride side would drop down out of the way.