Removing the Evaporator and Heater Boxes...

[gravelman]

If you're so incline and have patience, and you're not mentally ill, yet... this might help you to remove the evaporator and heater core boxes. I would start by reading the post on this forum, "How to remove the dash" because there's some good information there since some it addresses the removal of the evaporator and heater core boxes. Without the input, support and knowledge that helped me i would still be trying to remove it. It's a great site that shares information, I guess that's what it's all about, right...

1. Remove 7 nuts on the firewall side. If you have a ratcheting box wrench it will speed up the process.

2. Remove the 2 cover plates that surround the heater blower motor.

3. Remove the 2 heater hoses at the firewall, be sure to have a catch pan in place as you'll loose some coolant.

4. I cut the A/C hoses as close to the firewall as I could, I don't know how the removal with the hoses would go if you don't cut them short. Why ford did this beyond me, maybe to increase the cash flow of their service departments. HaHa...

5. Remove the tubular brace on the driver's side that supports the swing over steering wheel bracket. There's a small spring here and it has wings, so be careful it doesn't take flight.ll

6. There's a vacuum actuator on the far passenger side, remove the hoses and bracket.

7. Remove the spade connectors from the module on the drivers side, middle... I'd mark the wires... See the attached picture.

8. The heater fan motor will come out with the entire assembly.

9. Here's where a second set of hands would be handy, gently start pulling, wiggling up and down, remembering this assembly has been in place for over 50 years. Gently, but firmly... and remember the boxes are fiberglass and are fragile. Start by freeing up the heater box side, then the evap box will follow.

I'd strongly suggest flushing or replacing your heater core, as well as flushing the evaporator. Probably best to take the evaporator to an A/C repair station for flushing and testing. Also if your system is still running R12 and you're switching to R134 you'll need or should replace the expansion valve.

Please feel free to add or comment on this post.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/146715974@N05/?

[paulr]

Good write up, Mitch. Overdue for someone to add this.
I might add an FYI. On the 65/66s that low pressure hose, the snakeskin one, is a sought-after item and not available except used. If you're able to avoid cutting it or otherwise preserve it, it could be beneficial eventually.

Just another one of those disappearing parts that people will be crying for, guess how I know.

[gravelman]

Thanks Paul...

The hose was pretty worn out, plus I'm routing my hoses under the engine. I'll have 90 degree fitting at the firewall and both the hi and low pressure pipes come through the gap between the radiator and the radiator support low. I have a new parallel condenser and receiver/drier. The drier is mounted on the passenger side of the radiator vertically.

Is there any value to the old Ford compressor? It's not seized up...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/146715974@N05/?

[paulr]

I understand that you intend on building a modified system going forward (which I'd enjoy following as you go, by the way). I only meant to say that (1) these parts do hold some value for folks maintaining stock cars, and those restoring old parts. Also, (2) there is the case sometimes that people will sell a modified car someday inclusive of the old stored original parts which can help the sale value.

Yes, the original York or Tecumseh (factory) compressor is valuable particularly if the clutch is not seized. I'd hang on to that if you have the room; it will be valuable to you one way or another. BTW, the photo album link shows a drier and condenser, but I knew what you meant.

I am a stock person myself, but you have got me very curious about this build.

[jtschug]

You could disconnect the A/C hoses at the evaporator if you:

1) Remove the driver seat

2) Remove the console

3) Drop the steering column down

4) Remove the dash

I don't think you could get the Heater/Evaporator box out without removing the dash anyway, and I don't think you can pull out the dash without dropping the steering column down, so really the only extra effort here is pulling out the driver's seat, but it is only held in with four nuts and it makes the rest of the work a lot easier. You might want to pull the passenger seat too.

Once all this crap is out of the way you will need to peel away the black tar insulation (called cork tape) around the pipes and see the fittings. Use two large wrenches to hold the nuts on both sides of the joint while you uncouple the fittings. This is how the dealership would have done this back in the day and precludes the need to cut the hoses.

I strongly suggest replacing the cork tape when you reinstall, as this area will get cold and drip water when you run the system on humid days.

[redstangbob]

The hoses would have been disconnected up front, then the box pulled back and rested on the floor. There the hoses can be removed without too much trouble. Ford didn't build these cars for us to restore them 50 years later, they were meant to have a fairly short life then traded in.

[paulr]

You could disconnect the A/C hoses at the evaporator if ...

...you will need to peel away the black tar insulation (called cork tape) around the pipes and see the fittings. Use two large wrenches to hold the nuts on both sides of the joint while you uncouple the fittings. This is how the dealership would have done this back in the day and precludes the need to cut the hoses...

I bet you're right. My MY64 had its low pressure hose replaced by a Memphis, TN dealer only one year after purchase (there's a record of this) with a (then) new-style snakeskin LP hose (the 64-style was fatter and uh, not snakeskin). I have to believe the service dept. took the shortest possible route to accomplish this, i.e., dash removal, but leaving the majority of plenum wiring, vacuum, ductwork, etc. intact or loosely connected. Still must have charged a mint to change out one failed hose.

That's why I always say on these cars if you're fixing any one thing, fix everything you can see while you're in there.

[jtschug]

I never realized there was any rarity to those old hoses. I just ordered a whole new set of replacement hoses because I have the HVAC unit (and dash and everything else) out of the car right now, and when I put it back together I'm planning to charge it with R134a. I know the hose material will likely be something more modern like Goodyear 4880 or Parker 285 which have smooth rubber exteriors, not the 'snakeskin' look, but I thought of that as more of a good thing as I don't think I trust 50 year old rubber hoses.

I guess I will hold on to them, or at least put them on ebay

[gravelman]

I appreciate the comments to my post. One thing I didn't say why I wanted to remove the A/C and heater boxes is that I want to change the A/C fittings so my A/C hoses turn down with a 90 degree fittings. This will allow me to run the hoses under the engine, not on top. Also I can check out all the vacuum actuators, change out the insulation on the firewall, and paint the metal parts of the A/C and heater box.

My friend's property was next door to where the car sat under a Oak tree for 20 years, surprisingly it has no rust other than some surface rust on the trunk floor, it appears the car has never been hit front or back, all the sheet metal has good alignment. Roger bought the car and did some good work (not stock) on it before giving up in favor of his "55" Chevy project.

[Collineking]

Just registered for this club. 66 convertible. I just had the heater box out to replace the heater core. Put it all back in then later decided to pull out the ac evaporator to clean and test and replace the expansion valve. Can I not remove the evaporator without removing the heater/ mixer box? And I like the idea of changing up the lines to put the expansion valve in front of the firewall for easier access. Anyone have a diagram of that?

[paulr]

Welcome to the forum. The only true diagrams are reprints of the factory assembly graphics--reduced, so the print is small but, they're accurate. You can get em at any Tbird supply house like Bird Nest or Pat Wilson. Unfortunately, no decent graphics exist here. This is the book you want; it's cheap and it'll help a ton. https://www.parts123.com/parts123/dynde ... b&uKeY=192

This photo is the best one I could come up with from my resto a few years back. Not great. But you can see that the way the heater/blend chamber is fastened to the AC plenum, it's gotta get out of the way first. Also, the evaporator's only extraction is up through the top of the plenum. The plenum is a single molded fiberglass box with an opening on top, and a lid that screws on. It's a barrel of fun. Enjoy.