Steering Box and Engine Bump Stop? Question

[michaelperazzo]

Kiwi Bird, I was having a hard time with the master cylinder and booster conversion. Things weren't fitting right, and I really wanted to get the car back on the road so I ended up re installing the original master cylinder and booster. I discovered soon after my bad brakes were due to the passenger side manual brake adjusters (no automatic adjusters) were actually drivers side. The person who installed the incorrect hardware also didn't adjust the brakes on that side. So I turned the adjusters backwards to adjust the brakes. Now with both sides actually working I have pretty decent brakes. Will revisit the conversion in the future.

[Kiwi-Bird]

thank you Michael

[claybreaker 144]

My experience.
I removed and replaced the steering gear box on my 61 about 7 years ago. After reading about their excellent rebuilding process on this forum, I did a swap for a rebuilt one from Redhead Steering.
https://redheadsteeringgears.com/
I don’t see one at their site now for our era cars but they might be worth a call. Excellent product but expensive. All slop in steering is removed.
I removed my steering box mostly alone. A beefy piece of hickory was laid on towels across the corner of the engine bay. A piece of steel cable was tied off as a safety lanyard. I strongly advise using one. I used a strong cord tied to the box and wrapped around the hickory to raise and lower the box by winding or unwinding the cord as the piece of hickory was turned. Hell of a job but I was younger then, 64.
Best of luck.

Bill

Redhead has Thunderbird steering boxes listed on their website as part number 6533 for pin lock and 6536 for clamp lock, expensive at $696 plus $400 core. They are out of stock but I'm sure they will rebuild your core. I've never heard a bad review on their steering boxes, I'm thinking on getting one for my F250 with 225,000 miles it goes down the road with a bit of steering wheel play.