66 Trunk issue\question

[BigD63]

Hello all, I am trying to get into a trunk of a 66 TBird. It seems that the lock mechanism is completely seized, I have gotten penetrating oil in it a few times and it doesnt budge.
I am at the point of just drilling it and replacing it.
What size bit should I use and what should I be looking for after it is drilled for a release, I am not completely sure what I am looking for in there.

Any help would be great, and if there is a pic somewhere that's even better.

[dgalietti]

As an alternative.. I used a socket and a ridiculous amount of extensions and opened it inside the car.

[TbirdIntender]

a ridiculous amount of extensions

That's a funny image, dgalietti. It would make a cartoon about old cars.

[dgalietti]

Haha.. Well.. It so happens that I took a picture. If they did make a cartoon about me fishing 6 feet of extensions with a socket on the end of it into a dark trunk while dropping the flashlight 20 times and making up new curse words... Im not sure it would be appropriate for children.

[sseebart]

Here's a photo I took of the mechanism on the other side of the trunk. You may want to weigh the cost of a mobile locksmith against the cost of trying to replace the existing vintage mechanism.

~Steve

[vince]

What if you try a 1x1 or 2x2 board up against the inside mechanism and gave some taps with a hammer? Nothing hard enough to dent metal. Just enough to break the corrosion to metal to corrosion bonds that have frozen the mechanism. Suggesting this as these are likely materials you have somewhere. After that take the idea of calling a locksmith. Or find a former juvenile delinquent who used to steal spare tires, I lost a couple of spares to those guys back in the day. Good luck.

[Terry64HT]

Does the key turn in the lock? If the key won't turn at all, then the lock barrel is probably seized. If the key turns, but nothing seems to happen, either the clip as shown in Steve's photo as come off (but the pawl is still in place) or the weatherstrip has seized to body. If this weatherstrip isn't regularly lubricated, it can stick to an unbelievable extent. It takes careful work between the rear edge and the bumper to free it.

[Alan H. Tast]

The recommendation for removing the rear seats and using a LOT of extensions to get to the latch plate bolts (only two) is the soundest one in my mind and what I would recommend at the outset of this thread. Assuming the spare tire is not secured to the shelf and the plastic cover is not in place in front of the latch plate/bolts, this would be a LOT less invasive than drilling out a lock or hiring a locksmith to come by. The plastic cover can be replaced with another used one if you damage it a lot easier than replacing the lock assembly. Don't overthink this one or do something that will create more work than you need to do or, worse, damage parts that don't need to be damaged.

[BigD63]

Hi guys, for some reason I didnt get an alert that there were replies....

Do I have to have a minimum volume of posts to post pics?

Looks like the linkage is broken. Drilled the lock and its in pieces just dangling there.

Also, how long was that uber extension you got there, and what size nut on the end?

[BigD63]

The lock was completely seized, and I just received new information about it, which I think is part of the problem and explains some of what I found. This car is my dads and he said drill the lock so I tried, it is in storage, but apparently the car had an attempted break in. The lock was stuck would not turn, early on it wouldnt even allow a key in, when I pushed the cover back with a small slotted screwdriver, it caught and stuck a bunch along the way.
At first I thought it was gunk or rust, so I hit it with penetrating oil, and it did get some gunk out of it, but when I drilled through I saw that all of the linkage is detached and clearly damaged, and im not sure from what as it didnt look like drill marks.

After he confirmed that there had been an attempted breakin, I figure they hosed the lock and I made it worse.

At this point to answer another question, I am pretty sure that the weatherstripping has glued the trunk shut, but, I am sure that the latch is still holding, as I was stretching the leaf springs basically deadlifting the trunk lid but nothing. Also to verify I lifted the lid from both rear corners, and both sides did lift up some, but, both corners moved and the center stuck fast, so I can only assume it it latched still.

So at this point, aside from torching my way through the trunk, which i dont want to do, I am left with extensions?
How long is it from the 2 bolts in the back to the back seat area, I can get my hand most of the way across the shallower part of the trunk, so I know I need a lot of extension length, best guess as to how long?
What is the bolt head size?

Any other good ideas to try? Im all ears?

[Privateer]

I have had the linkage fail on my lock after I got my 66. I did the method of removing the rear seat and using several extensions. It was a bit of a pain but worth not damaging the car.

[sseebart]

When I first bought my car, the lock on the trunk was missing. The PO had been using a screwdriver to unlatch the trunk. He was an expert at it--could do it faster than turning a key.

There's no question the trunk is still latched, so I'd try the screwdriver trick first.

~Steve

[64ZCODE]

Locksmiths use Tri-Flow for lubricating and freeing up tumblers. Try flooding the lock cylinder liberally with Tri-Flow. Then if twisting the key still doesn't produce any movement, you could try vibrating the lock mechanism with an air hammer. Turn the air pressure way down and put something between the air hammer and the lock mechanism to cushion and protect it.

[dgalietti]

I can't recall if it was 7/16 or 1/2

It was probably 4+ feet long. if you see in the pic it goes almost the full length of the fender.

The longest extensions you can get are the best. The more you have, the more it sags and it's like fishing.

[Alan H. Tast]

This isn't rocket science, folks...there's TWO - I repeat - TWO bolts holding the striker plate (432A06) to the rear panel of the trunk. You have to remove the rear seats, go through the trunk to get to the bolts and plate in the center of the rear panel of the trunk with extensions and a socket wrench (1/2" or 9/16?"). You may have to remove the cover over the latch (432A70) to get to the bolts, though. Once the two bolts are out there's nothing to hold the lid down any more (remember, the latch is capturing the striker plate) and you can lift it open.

If you don't have a copy of the '66 T-bird Shop Manual, I suggest you get one - NOW!