1956 getting hot.

[thessler]

Hi
After sitting at a long traffic light yesterday, 90 degree weather. The car started bogging real bad I think I was on the verge of vapor lock. As I was driving I kept pumping the gas and got through it, within a 1/2 mile the temp came down a little and the car ran fine. Yes I have an electric pump going with the mechanical.
New radiator and cleaned out block water jacket, large volume thermostat.
Now I'm thinking six blade clutch fan or the modified high volume water pump, or both. I really don't want to change the water pump, I have a new one on there i didn't know about the high volume one at the time.
Any experience with the fan or pump or should I do both ?
Thanks, Tom

[ICON 1956]

I have both a six blade and the high volume water pump. It does make a difference. Being in the midwest on hot days my car does not over heat at all.

[eboose7]

Like you, I have a '56 Thunderbird. I live in Atlanta where 90 degree plus days are common in the summer. I have the six blade fan, the high flow water pump and the electric cooling fan. Still, I have experienced vapor lock. Last year, I was taking my car to the upholstery shop to have some work done. It was a 90 degree day in September, and I got stuck on the freeway in bumper to bumper traffic. The electric cooling fan was on constantly. Despite that fact, the car vapor locked and stalled. I was left sitting on the side of the highway for over an hour waiting on the car to cool down before it would start. The fuel in the glass bowl was full of bubbles. I finally made it to the shop, once I was able to exit the freeway, but I had the same problem on the way home. I used surface streets, in an effort to avoid the freeway, but stopping at traffic lights caused the problem again. I have owned the car for eight years and that was the only time it has put me down. I don't know what to suggest that will solve what appears to be a design problem. Since that incident, I have tried to avoid prolonged stopping in hot weather. Fortunately, the weather in Atlanta, with its mild winters, permits me to drive the car all year. It especially likes cool days in late fall.

[thessler]

Do you guys run a six blade clutch fan or straight bolt on.?

Thanks, Tom

[CSPIDY]

There would be no advantage to running a clutch fan on a Tbird.
Installing the new water pump spacer and an aluminum radiator will give the most for your money.
The original water pump spacer provides no flow at idle. This is the main issue.
This is provided your engine water jacket is not full of calcium and rust.

[DynoDan’55]

There would be no advantage to running a clutch fan on a Tbird.

Unless of course, you want to save the wasted HP turning the fan at high RPMs (fan not needed at highway speed). Old fans also have a tendency to fly apart (causing damage).
CASCO’s fiberglass shroud is also a worthwhile consideration if you don’t want to replace the radiator. It pulls more air at idle. Their modified water pump was so effective, I never bothered to change the spacer.
Assuming your thermostat is not malfunctioning, if none of the aftermarket cooling accessories solves overheating, then cleaning the rust out of block & heads WOULD likely be indicated.

BTW: When MY thermostat stuck closed, it caused a head gasket (old/org. steel) leak. I switched to an 80% propylene coolant (it plugged the leak), and an open system (modified rad. cap). Never had an overheating issue since.

[thessler]

I have been through the entire engine and heads, they are spotless.
Already have a new aluminum radiator. I have looked at the modified aftermarket spacer looks pretty pricey for what it is. The modified waterpump looks more effective. Not to be cheap but if I bought the waterpump, spacer and clutch fan it's starting to add up.
thanks, Tom

[ICON 1956]

Just to add to this issue, I don't drive my car everyday, After reading a few posts. These cars don't like to sit still in hot weather. Considering the age of these beauties back 60 years there weren't as many cars on the road. the roads were wide open. My car is not a daily driver I use only to drive on back roads in the country and cruise nights and to car shows. I don't use expressways so to state that I haven't had an issue would not be fair to others.

[CSPIDY]

The original water pump spacer provides no flow at idle. This is the main issue.

The new spacer will provide flow at 450 RPM.

[DynoDan’55]

I have been through the entire engine and heads, they are spotless.
Already have a new aluminum radiator. I have looked at the modified aftermarket spacer looks pretty pricey for what it is. The modified waterpump looks more effective. Not to be cheap but if I bought the waterpump, spacer and clutch fan it's starting to add up.
thanks, Tom

I assume you have also checked the timing & vac. advance diaphragms? Y-Blocks will run hot when the ignition is retarded.

[thessler]

Good assumption

[tnswt12]

I replaced the water pump in my '57 several years back and while in there I bought the Ames Spacer and installed it too. After the repairs, the temperature needle now registers about 1/4 year round (I live outside Atlanta). Prior, the needle wanted to drift between half and 3/4.

Each fall I drain the coolant, add water and a radiator cleaner and make a couple of trips allowing the cleaner to work. I flush the system twice and then fill with 50/50 Prestone/distilled water solution.

[MarkR]

Backing up the post above, the Ames spacer works very very well. You can get more info on it at Gil’s Garage.
Mark, Las Vegas

[thessler]

Just a thought, why not remove the spacer behind the water pump and space out the fan and power steering pump ?
That's the direction I'm thinking.

[Joe Johnston]

MODERATOR NOTE: since this thread has taken a turn to inquiries about the Ames Water Pump Spacer, that portion will be continued in the Modified Section.