1962 Convertible Top Questions

[kbuhagiar]

Hello Folks,

New (to me) 62 Convertible owner here, I have a couple of questions specific to the convertible top:

(1) What is Plan B if the top gets stuck somewhere between opened and closed? Can the moving parts be manipulated manually to either fully retract or erect the top, or at least collapse it enough to transport it home?

(2) I've seen references elsewhere to 'solid-state' replacement components for the top mechanism. Is this accurate? Which parts are we specifically talking about? Do they increase the operational reliability of the top mechanism?

Thanks in advance for your time and trouble.

[RAVEN]

Just so you are aware, currently there is NO "solid state" RELAY replacements for 61-63 Birds. There are mechanical replacement RELAY assemblies, which require the cutting of the wiring harness for the top.
Currently a Solid State system only exists for 64-66 Birds.
The Mechanical replacement units are current production relays mounted on a din rail, complete with terminal blocks for wire connections, after cutting off the factory RELAY plugs. I have never installed a mechanical relay system but do have a 64/66 electronic unit and it works well. The mechanical unit I am not familiar with fully, nor can I speak of its quality, but modern parts are readily available in the case of failures, and have high cycle lives.

[kbuhagiar]

Just so you are aware, currently there is NO "solid state" RELAY replacements for 61-63 Birds. There are mechanical replacement RELAY assemblies, which require the cutting of the wiring harness for the top.
Currently a Solid State system only exists for 64-66 Birds.
The Mechanical replacement units are current production relays mounted on a din rail, complete with terminal blocks for wire connections, after cutting off the factory RELAY plugs. I have never installed a unit nor can I speak of its quality, but modern parts are readily available in the case of failures, and have high cycle lives.

Good to know...thanks for the information.

Still interested in hearing other's contingency plans should the top get stuck mid-cycle...

[Jim Wulf]

There are detailed instructions in the shop manual for fabricating a jumper wire assembly in order to bypass the relays during each phase of the top cycle. This relay bypass procedure will get you past the cycle phase where the top is stuck.

[kbuhagiar]

There are detailed instructions in the shop manual for fabricating a jumper wire assembly in order to bypass the relays during each phase of the top cycle. This relay bypass procedure will get you past the cycle phase where the top is stuck.

Thank you sir!

[Jim Wulf]

I just realized you have '62. I think the jumper instructions were only included in the 62-63 Manual, and the dedicated convertible top manual, not in the earlier '62 only manual. I'll attach a copy of the relevant page. Make sure you use at least 12 gauge wire as noted. Lots of amps travelling through that buss bar.

[Mheiron]

Congratulations on your new Convertible!

I recommend keeping the stock relays. Troubleshooting the stock relays is easy enuf after awhile.

The upgraded relays wouldn’t address the complications of all the switches, wiring, motors, pumps, gear boxes or hydraulic solenoids either. It would be expensive and painful to install with only a marginal benefit (if any).

Like others said, if the top stops and doesn’t complete the cycle, pull the back seat and use your jumper wire. Follow the manual. In an extreme case, there’s also a mechanical deck release in the rear wheel well but I’ve never had to use that thankfully.

I wouldn’t consider buying a car with non OEM relays.

Just my humble opinion.

Enjoy your new old car!

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Hi. I have a 1961 convertible, and on occasion, the pump will quit, but restart after letting go of the switch, and allowing the circuit breaker to reset. Now, which circuit breaker is is? got to pull out the continuity light or function on your multi-meter to make sure all the wiring is sound.

as far as moving the top once it "quits" half up or down, the jumper relay trick described earlier works great (it's in the 1961 manual as well). recently I was getting nothing when I pressed my switch to retract the roof. It was D-E-A-D dead.

I had to take out my backseat to get to the relays as I was tracing my issue from front to back. As long as you have power to the power bar on the relay unit, using the jumper to unlock, then raise the deck, etc (have to study the manual to see which relay does which job).

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Hi. I have a 1961 convertible, and on occasion, the pump will quit, but restart after letting go of the switch, and allowing the circuit breaker to reset. Now, which circuit breaker is it? That's the question. got to pull out the continuity light or function on your multi-meter to make sure all the wiring and breakers are sound.

as far as moving the top once it "quits" half up or down, the jumper relay trick described earlier works great (it's in the 1961 manual as well). recently I was getting nothing when I pressed my switch to retract the roof. It was D-E-A-D dead.

I had to take out my backseat to get to the relays as I was tracing my issue from front to back. As long as you have power to the power bar on the relay unit, using the jumper to unlock, then raise the deck, etc (have to study the manual to see which relay does which job).

so back to the pump quitting. If all is well throughout the vehicle, inside the pump is a circuit breaker as well. I have not done this, BUT, I have been told by at least one mechanic, and another vendor, the if you either bend that circuit breaker in, so it is harder to trip, OR, one guy I know on his '63 actually soldered that circuit shut, and lets the 10 or 50 amp fuse bear the brunt should something goes wrong. He swears he's never had any issues since he did that. I did pull my pump and opened it up to take a look, but I "chickened" out because I am reticent to damage the pump.

[62roadster]

I have had a solid state relay system on my '62 convertible for more than 8 years now, works perfectly. They are being made by a retired electrical engineer and the nice part about it is that no wires have to be cut, as with the '64-'66 system which another member had mentioned; the original factory plugs from the old mechanical "can" relays, plug right into the solid state system and you can go back to the original factory set-up any time you want. Off hand I don't remember what I paid, I would have to look back at my records but it was probably between $400-$500,,,

[RAVEN]

62 please provide photos of your electronic system and who manufactured the unit. I am very interested as I only know of the 64/66 system.
The 61/63 system that you have, may be an analog unit and sold as electronic. I am very interested. There are a lot of clones mislabeled as digital.

[62roadster]

Unfortunately my ’62 is still in storage some 75 miles from me, with all this virus stuff I was unable to get it out yet but I have included a picture of the known ’64-’66 unit, which most know about, and I can tell you that my unit looks very much like the one pictured, same style solid state relays, 2 solenoids (but in different locations), lot of wires, etc. I may have pictures saved on my computer of when mine was 1st sent to me and I will try to find them and post them. But to answer your question as to it being solid state/digital/analog/electronic, etc., so what you would ca

ll or term the one in the attached picture, you can also label mine as; mostly what is different is the way the wiring is to attach the 8 connectors from the old “can” type relays. Also, to be clear, it was not manufactured by a company per say, as I said, it was custom made or made to order for me by a retired electrical engineer. Hope this helps till I can post a picture of my actual unit,,,

[RAVEN]

From your picture, the unit appears to be a John Draxler mechanical relay system, NOT a Solid State unit. Many are told that the system is electronic but this is a miss leading statement. The relays are Off the Shelf mechanical units. John may have had an Electrical Engineer design/buiid it or be a vendor of the unit.
Will await further comment once you have your car out of storage, and a clearer image can be obtained.

W

[62roadster]

You know I guess I unknowingly created some confusion by terming mine as solid state when I should have said electronic if that description applies; although mine was not a Draxler product. You had mentioned that a solid state unit is available for '64-'66; if you know where I can see a picture of one or if you have a picture of one, can you please post it? If you or anyone is still interested in seeing my unit I will find and post a picture,,,thanks

[Jim Wulf]

You know I guess I unknowingly created some confusion by terming mine as solid state when I should have said electronic if that description applies; although mine was not a Draxler product. You had mentioned that a solid state unit is available for '64-'66; if you know where I can see a picture of one or if you have a picture of one, can you please post it? If you or anyone is still interested in seeing my unit I will find and post a picture,,,thanks

Here's a picture of Draxler's 61-63 replacement unit. it looks very similar to yours. I agree with Wally that the original relay system is very reliable if one takes the time to clean and tighten the connection plugs, which are, admittedly the weak points in the system.