Carb Upgrade

[GeorgeG]

Steve. When the electric choke gets power, it starts to open, regardless of whether the engine is running or not. When the choke is not electrified, it closes. Engine temperature has nothing to do with it.

George

[RedBird64]

You don't want to use the coil supply to power the choke heater. That circuit is working hard enough supplying the current for its intended purpose. Forcing it to power a resistance heater is going to reduce the voltage and current available to the coil and you do not want that. Your also running that extra current through your ign switch and it's not designed for it.
I would never convert the stock carb to a "dumb" choke heater ("dumb" because it has no relationship to how warm or cold the eng is).

[stevegintn]

You don't want to use the coil supply to power the choke heater. That circuit is working hard enough supplying the current for its intended purpose. Forcing it to power a resistance heater is going to reduce the voltage and current available to the coil and you do not want that. Your also running that extra current through your ign switch and it's not designed for it.
I would never convert the stock carb to a "dumb" choke heater ("dumb" because it has no relationship to how warm or cold the eng is).

Good point, RedBird64 - when I put one on my Autolite 4100, I was having a terrible time trying to adjust it, properly. I just figured an electric one would solve he problem? (it sorta did, as engine starts much easier, but still cold-natured on a warm day). But the instructions that came with the electric choke said to run it to the coil. I will investigate pulling power from my window switch relay.

If they are not good, why do all the new carbs come with electric choke?

[stevegintn]

Redbird64, I took your advice and reran my choke power wire to the power window relay on the firewall (vs. the coil). With my little test light, I discovered that it is ALWAYS HOT.

YOU WERE RIGHT.

My car started on FIRST ATTEMPT (never happens) and choke immediately opened (more than it ever has). Restart attempts, just tough the key.

[saenzm]

I know you already bought your carb by now, but for anyone else still looking to buy I recommend the Summit 600 carb. It's a good price for what you get.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXeHt8EZEIU

[stevegintn]

I know you already bought your carb by now, but for anyone else still looking to buy I recommend the Summit 600 carb. It's a good price for what you get.

saenz, thank you but my car is running so well now that I decided to postpone replacing the old autolite. But if/when I do, I will certainly look at Summit.

[stevegintn]

You don't want to use the coil supply to power the choke heater. That circuit is working hard enough supplying the current for its intended purpose. Forcing it to power a resistance heater is going to reduce the voltage and current available to the coil and you do not want that. Your also running that extra current through your ign switch and it's not designed for it.
I would never convert the stock carb to a "dumb" choke heater ("dumb" because it has no relationship to how warm or cold the eng is).

RedBird, one last report on this issue (hopefully) - the choke connection to ALWAYS HOT power windows relay RAN MY NEW BATTERY DOWN.

So, I reconnected it to the SWITCHED HOT circuit on the fan blower motor, and seems to be working fine?

[RedBird64]

You don't want to use the coil supply to power the choke heater. That circuit is working hard enough supplying the current for its intended purpose. Forcing it to power a resistance heater is going to reduce the voltage and current available to the coil and you do not want that. Your also running that extra current through your ign switch and it's not designed for it.
I would never convert the stock carb to a "dumb" choke heater ("dumb" because it has no relationship to how warm or cold the eng is).

RedBird, one last report on this issue (hopefully) - the choke connection to ALWAYS HOT power windows relay RAN MY NEW BATTERY DOWN.

So, I reconnected it to the SWITCHED HOT circuit on the fan blower motor, and seems to be working fine?

That will probably work OK.

Scott

[comcot]

Here you go, Steve. Quick Fuel is an updated design of the Holley. A lot more user friendly and adjustable. See the sight glass to adjust floats. Started bys a bunch of Holley guys who broke off to do their own version for racing. Now they make models - like my Slayer - for road cars. Holley now sells them on their website. I got mine through Summit. Highly recommended.

George

QuickFuel .jpg

Hi George,

Thanks for you suggestion. I am on the way to choose that QF carb to replace my original 4100 that don't want to work properly (warped on power valve cover and base plate, over torqued by previous owners probably).
So I have a few questions :
- did you use a spacer ? If yes, what type ?
- On a 63 setup, the PCV hose is 1/2 in. and is connected to a bracket who carries the PCV valve. How do you run it because the QF carb has a 3/8 inlet for PCV ? Is it possible to connect a 1/2 in. hose to that inlet (naive question...).
- how do you bypass the hot water passage of the stock spacer ?

Thank you and sorry for my (bad) english !