67 Tbird expert

[poweroptions]

Is there anyone I can email or speak to about my 67 Thunderbird? thanks

[cdhowell]

That is what forums are for. Ask away.

[poweroptions]

I'm trying to figure out the wiring schematics for a early production 67 Tbird flip away steering wheel with the 2 wire door jamb switch. This is not covered in the FORD shop manual or the large wiring schematic diagrams I just ordered. Bob at Tbird Sanctuary is unclear on the setup too. thanks

[tbirdjohn]

Hello PowerOptions. Not sure if I can help either- this is John- 67-71 Tech Advisor.

Do you have the Ford vacuum manual? It's separate from the Shop Manual. Since the Swing-Away wheel is vacuum operated, you could have an issue there. I can't recall if my car has the 2-way door switch or not. It's parked at our lake house so I don't have ready access to it at the moment. I do have the vacuum manual however and could get some copies made if that might help.

[poweroptions]

John , I have opened the relay mounted on the emergency brake. Manually pressing the contacts together the steering wheel works properly and the interior lights come on. It is an electrical situation as I have no power to only the drivers door jamb switch. thank you

[tbirdjohn]

If you have opened that relay and things work properly, I would pursue replacing the relay. The door jamb switch is probably okay.

[poweroptions]

John with my testor i have no current to the door switch. I have exchanged the dj switch with the pass. side and it works fine. A yellow/black stripe wire plugs into the black/blue stripe wire of the door switch. The yellow/blk stripe wire has no current. My electrical schematics from Ford don't show my early production system henceforth I have no idea where the yellow/black wire runs to. A yellow/ blk stripe and orange/white stripe pigtail plug into the vacuum release valve pigtail. However the vacuum release valve pigtail reverses color at the connection. yellow mates to the orange and orange to the yellow. Weird I thought they would be continuity with the wiring color. At this plug, I have it half way seperated, so I can test current with the end of my testor. I have strong current on the yellow/black stripe wire lead in and weak current (dim bulb) on the org/wht lead in . When I pull the connection apart I have the same strong current on the lead in yel/blk and nothing on the org/wht. I question this. Now onto the relay. I was fortunate to have a spare relay for one of my Lincolns. I plugged it in and it is the same. I have 5 wires on the pigtail. 1. The black/blue stripe is hot. When I close this contact the interior lights come on. 2. The green/yellow stripe is + hot. 3. The yellow/black stripe no current. 4. The orange/wht stripe has weak current(dim bulb) When I close this contact the steering wheel flips aside. 5. This solid black wire is ground. In my working on this I thought I'd jump a positive lead to the black/blue stripe wire of the door jamb switch and everything would work. First time I did this it blew the fuse to my power source (console ashtray) Second time I did this it fried the wire off the relay. DUGOOH ! Homer Simpson would be proud. I now have frickin weeks into this and I've made little progress. This is a 0ne owner car with 63K. I see little to no evidence of prior work. The interior lights from drivers door did not work as well as the steering wheel when purchased. I also have the map light pulled. I can use a jump wire and make the interior lights come on from here. Pat

[ve4jnf]

Hi i have everything you want and after building mine no where everything gos. send me your email to ve4jnf@shaw.ca and ill send you the vac diagram