Gear shift lever removal, do I need to pull bearing first?

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SBird
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Gear shift lever removal, do I need to pull bearing first?

Post by SBird »

Its my turn, my car slipped out of park into reverse while I was parked on a slight hill. I read our forum posts and here is where I am:

I pulled the steering wheel and turn signal switch and my steering column was very solid, no up, down or side movement, The insulator and bearing looked good so I put the turn signal back together and it tested tested ok.

I want to remove the roll pin from the bottom because I don't seem to have room to do it from the top without hitting my dash pad.
What do I need to be wary of pounding it out from the bottom, it seems like everyone in the forum pounds it out from the top? Or did I miss an alternative?

By the way is the roll pin 3/16"? I'm going to get a roll pin punch.
I'll get er done with patience and a lot of help. Thanks Forum guys.
66_Charly
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Post by 66_Charly »

I made a wooden support to place between the lever base and the driver's side floor. Withe the lever in low gear, there should be enough room to swing a hammer.
David

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tbird
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Post by tbird »

I think the punch is a 5/32" place the shift lever in drive so it is about horizontal and place a 2 x 4 cut to the right length so it will support the lever at the roll pin I drill a hole in the wood for the pin to be driven into this way you do not damage the censored mechanism.
Jim Mills
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2002 Thunderbird
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1959 Ford Retractable HT
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SBird
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Post by SBird »

Thanks David and Jim, I'll have my punch set Wednesday and give it a try.
I assume you can do this with steering wheel off and everything else in it normal operational position.(bearing,switches, etc...)
I'll get er done with patience and a lot of help. Thanks Forum guys.
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sseebart
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Post by sseebart »

I was not able to drive that pin out while the shift collar was in the car, even using the setup described above. I ended up taking the entire column out. Good thing, too, as the lower bearing and ancillary pieces were completely missing.

~Steve
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Post by tbird »

Steve
The roll pin can be a real problem to drive out without the correct size of roll pin punch, have done many of them. There is no lower column bearing only the one at the top of the shaft and the lower shift tube spacer is that what you are referring too.
Jim Mills
VTCI # 8071
VTCI 1964-66 Technical Editor
2002 Thunderbird
1965 Convertible
1962 Convertible (in progress)
1959 Ford Retractable HT
Many parts cars
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sseebart
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Post by sseebart »

Sorry--yes, I meant the spacer. I had the right tool for the job, but at my level of experience, it was far better to be swinging a hammer like that anywhere but inside my car.

~Steve
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SBird
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Post by SBird »

Here it is. Thanks Jim, the 5/32" roll pin punch did the trick, but I had to hammer from the bottom side. One good tap and it was loose, then just a bunch of small taps.

Mine does not appear to be worn as much as other pics I've seen, do you think I may also have a linkage problem?

I've also included a pic of my horn brush and that solves another problem.

What would you do? Replace it? Seems like the best option.


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I'll get er done with patience and a lot of help. Thanks Forum guys.
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RedBird64
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Post by RedBird64 »

Yes, I would replace the shifter. The replacement should be hardened and wont wear like that again.
I wonder how the horn button wire broke? Maybe it wasn't routed correctly.

If you have a 66 with a C6, I would also inspect the nylon bushings on the linkage at the trans, I'm betting they're worn and loose.
If you have a COM, you may want to make sure the bushing at the bottom of the steering colum on the gear selector arm isn't loose or damaged.
Scott
1964 Coupe Wimbledon white/Rangoon Red w/black int. Owned for 42 years. It was my folks car before that (second owners). VTCI # 12013.
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SBird
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Post by SBird »

Scott, I have the 64 with the C-O-M.
I'll get er done with patience and a lot of help. Thanks Forum guys.
tbird
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Post by tbird »

SBird
The reason that you had trouble driving it out the bottom could be caused by a burr or the pin could have been expanded previously when some one tried to drive it out before with a center punch or a pin punch that was to small.

If you have a MIG welder just fill in the notch and grind it down it will never wear out again the MIG wire is hard.

If you have not replaced the lower shift tube bushing better check it may not even be there any more, a bad bushing will also add to it falling out of park.
Jim Mills
VTCI # 8071
VTCI 1964-66 Technical Editor
2002 Thunderbird
1965 Convertible
1962 Convertible (in progress)
1959 Ford Retractable HT
Many parts cars
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Ozzy351
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Post by Ozzy351 »

Do '64 to '66 Birds have a detent plate similar to '61 to '63? If so, maybe that is also worn.

Ozzy :smile:
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tbird
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Post by tbird »

Yes they do have a detent plate it is quite a bit different than the 61/63 but serves the same purpose, the material in the detent is very hard in comparison to the shift leaver and does not commonly wear unless the PO's have done a lot of drag shifting.

There is also the question of top shaft bearing condition which is usually OK but the insulator that goes around the bearing is usually toast lots are gone to the point that they are just powdered rubber.
Jim Mills
VTCI # 8071
VTCI 1964-66 Technical Editor
2002 Thunderbird
1965 Convertible
1962 Convertible (in progress)
1959 Ford Retractable HT
Many parts cars
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SBird
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Post by SBird »

My next step is to inspect the lower bushing (not the cone) for play. Any advice on how to do this is appreciated. I'll remove the inner fender and see what I can do.


I also looked at Thunderbird Ranch website and John D included this(see quote below) in his tech tips. Could this refer to the bushing and not the cone???

"John, I wanted to let you know about my experience with steering column bushings and see what you thought. I have a '64 Bird and when I was getting it ready for the road in 1991, I found I had a bad bushing. By looking at it, I could see that the column would have to come out to do the job properly. I decided to try a gamble. I cut one of the bushings at what would be the bottom, snapped it over the shift tube and pushed it into place. Guess what? Its still there after 7 years and working fine. So maybe one doesn't have to remove the column to replace this bugger after all. What do you think? "

What do you think??
I'll get er done with patience and a lot of help. Thanks Forum guys.
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sseebart
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Post by sseebart »

IMHO, if the bushing is bad, I'd pull the column and replace it properly.

While you're inside the inner fender, don't forget to take a look at the rag joint as well.

~Steve
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