Hi guys, my 1965 Special landau is almost finished with a 1.5 year restoration. The car is pulling to the right (mild), got it aligned. still pulls to the right. If you put it up on the lift with engine running it turns by itself all the way right. Im trying to aviod a new steering box so I wanted to know if there is any adjustment/calibration that can be done.
someone mentioned a piston with teeth that is shimmed at the factory. Could that have been installed wrong?
thanks.
Pulls to the right but aligned
Moderator: redstangbob
Pulls to the right but aligned
1965 Special Landau
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Desert bird
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Sat May 07, 2011 10:05 am
By the description it appears your steering box may need a little adjustment to the centering balance.
I had to go through this after disassembling and replacing all of the seals in my steering box. It was a real pain to access and adjust using jack stands while installed on the car.
I'd put it on a hoist if I were to do it again. The end cap on the box is removed to expose a lock nut adjustment. I found that only a few degrees of nut adjustment (in the direction of the pull) were needed to compensate a fairly heavy right pull of power steering offset.
The service manual goes into a lot of detail about the steering box, and how to make the adjustment.
Regards, Jeff
I had to go through this after disassembling and replacing all of the seals in my steering box. It was a real pain to access and adjust using jack stands while installed on the car.
I'd put it on a hoist if I were to do it again. The end cap on the box is removed to expose a lock nut adjustment. I found that only a few degrees of nut adjustment (in the direction of the pull) were needed to compensate a fairly heavy right pull of power steering offset.
The service manual goes into a lot of detail about the steering box, and how to make the adjustment.
Regards, Jeff
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redstangbob
- Posts: 3604
- Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 4:06 pm
- Location: 40 miles east of Wixom
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Desert bird
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Sat May 07, 2011 10:05 am
I have a MM that covers the 65.
From it's grease, pizza sauce and peanut butter encrusted pages I have extracted this:
Valve Spool Centering Check
1. Connect a 0-2000 psi pressure pauge between the PS pump output and the gear intput.
2. Make sure that the valve on the gauge is open (why it would have a valve I have no idea)
3. Check fluid level.
4. Start eng and cycle steering from stop to stop to bring fluid up to operating temp. Stop eng and recheck fluid level.
5. With the eng running at 1000 RPM and the steering wheel centered, attach an inch pound torque wrench to the steering wheel retaining nut.
Apply suffeicient torque to the torque wrnch to get a gauge reading of 250 psi.
6. Torque reading should be the same in both directions when 250 psi is reached. If the difference exceeds 4 inch pounds, the steering gear must be removed and the centering shim removed and a thicker or thinner shim installed. Only one shim is to be used.
End quote.
The instruction go on to say that the out-of-car adjustment is the same but is to be made at the stops. It also says adjustment should not be needed unless there is wear or damage.
So there really is no in-car adjustment. At best the gear will have to be removed and you'd have to fiddle with shims (it doesn't describe how to select them).
I installed a rebuilt gear from RedHead steering gears in Seattle. They make them better than new and I can tell you the difference is astonishing. They cost a bit (OK, a lot) more than el-cheapo rebuilds (I think I paid $550) but it's worth it IMO. RH ships anywhere. Check out their site for a discription of how they make them better than new. www.redheadsteeringgrears.com
BTW, after having R&R'd mine 4 times in 35 years, I finally figured out the trick for getting it out easily; After unhooking all the lines, ground wire and removing the three bolts that secure it to the frame, simply unscrew the lowest rubber isolation mount while it's still jambed in the car - a large pipe wrenched worked for me. Then the gear can rotate slightly clockwise and slip down through a flat channel in the frame. If you do this there is no need to remove the exhaust or anything else.
Hope this helps,
Scott
From it's grease, pizza sauce and peanut butter encrusted pages I have extracted this:
Valve Spool Centering Check
1. Connect a 0-2000 psi pressure pauge between the PS pump output and the gear intput.
2. Make sure that the valve on the gauge is open (why it would have a valve I have no idea)
3. Check fluid level.
4. Start eng and cycle steering from stop to stop to bring fluid up to operating temp. Stop eng and recheck fluid level.
5. With the eng running at 1000 RPM and the steering wheel centered, attach an inch pound torque wrench to the steering wheel retaining nut.
Apply suffeicient torque to the torque wrnch to get a gauge reading of 250 psi.
6. Torque reading should be the same in both directions when 250 psi is reached. If the difference exceeds 4 inch pounds, the steering gear must be removed and the centering shim removed and a thicker or thinner shim installed. Only one shim is to be used.
End quote.
The instruction go on to say that the out-of-car adjustment is the same but is to be made at the stops. It also says adjustment should not be needed unless there is wear or damage.
So there really is no in-car adjustment. At best the gear will have to be removed and you'd have to fiddle with shims (it doesn't describe how to select them).
I installed a rebuilt gear from RedHead steering gears in Seattle. They make them better than new and I can tell you the difference is astonishing. They cost a bit (OK, a lot) more than el-cheapo rebuilds (I think I paid $550) but it's worth it IMO. RH ships anywhere. Check out their site for a discription of how they make them better than new. www.redheadsteeringgrears.com
BTW, after having R&R'd mine 4 times in 35 years, I finally figured out the trick for getting it out easily; After unhooking all the lines, ground wire and removing the three bolts that secure it to the frame, simply unscrew the lowest rubber isolation mount while it's still jambed in the car - a large pipe wrenched worked for me. Then the gear can rotate slightly clockwise and slip down through a flat channel in the frame. If you do this there is no need to remove the exhaust or anything else.
Hope this helps,
Scott
1964 Coupe Wimbledon white/Rangoon Red w/black int. Owned for 42 years. It was my folks car before that (second owners). VTCI # 12013.
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Ian M Greer
- Posts: 514
- Joined: Thu May 12, 2011 9:22 pm
- Location: North Bay On. Canada
Re: Pulls to the right but aligned
So I’m just getting around to seeing this thread, but I have the same issue. I have a 65 Thunderbird, it pulls extreme to the right. At first I suspected a brake caliper seized up, but I put the car on jacks last night, started the engine and the wheels on their own cut hard to the right. While driving, it will almost throw you into the ditch line. So I’m assuming from this thread it may be time for a new steering box?
Has anyone rebuilt one from a 65 before? I’m trying to decide between a rebuild, or just swapping.
Thanks for any help!!
Jon Preston
Has anyone rebuilt one from a 65 before? I’m trying to decide between a rebuild, or just swapping.
Thanks for any help!!
Jon Preston
Jon Preston
65 Ford Thunderbird 390
65 Ford Thunderbird 390
Re: Pulls to the right but aligned
Yes, it gear time 
Many years ago I installed a junk yard steering gear and as soon as I started the eng, the steering wheel spun out of my hands!
I suspect there is something foreign in the valving or something broken that cuases this.
At any rate, it can't be fixed from the outside.
The gears are a speciatly item to rebuild and even though I've torn into just about everything, I would not mess with them. You need special tools, a pump and guages to assemble and set them up right. It can be done without them but it wont be nearly as good. (I had a Ford Dealer rebuild my orig gear, then years later I installed a Redhead)
The good news is the Redhead gear is better than new and makes that part of the steering as good as it can get.
Scott
Many years ago I installed a junk yard steering gear and as soon as I started the eng, the steering wheel spun out of my hands!
I suspect there is something foreign in the valving or something broken that cuases this.
At any rate, it can't be fixed from the outside.
The gears are a speciatly item to rebuild and even though I've torn into just about everything, I would not mess with them. You need special tools, a pump and guages to assemble and set them up right. It can be done without them but it wont be nearly as good. (I had a Ford Dealer rebuild my orig gear, then years later I installed a Redhead)
The good news is the Redhead gear is better than new and makes that part of the steering as good as it can get.
Scott
1964 Coupe Wimbledon white/Rangoon Red w/black int. Owned for 42 years. It was my folks car before that (second owners). VTCI # 12013.
Re: Pulls to the right but aligned
Most of us have rebuilt/swapped our steering box. A strong recommendation to call https://redheadsteeringgears.com/ They are very friendly people with tons of gears on the shelf. Most likely, they would swap you but, if you want your own original I'd call them and discuss it. A few of us who live in the same town have had a chance to see the operation. I couldn't get my pitman arm off the gear, so I brought it in that way and the guy reached for the correct tool, smiled, and it was off in a second. Then he even threw it in the parts washer. But, it's their service and quality that recommends them.
The worst thing about that job is getting the gear out from under the car if your motor's still in place. Easier if you remove the engine first...but...
P.S. Their shipping costs are small. They use USPS--you know, the deal if it fits in the box regardless of weight it's one flat price. $20, i think.
Paul
VTCI 12014
Registry 45122
'64 Landau HT
"Beer, now there's a temporary solution!" ~Homer Simpson
VTCI 12014
Registry 45122
'64 Landau HT
"Beer, now there's a temporary solution!" ~Homer Simpson