Engine Refresh, Part II . . . Uh, Let's Just Call it a Rebuild

[sseebart]

You should contact Dennis at DSC Motorsports. He sells good used 390 blocks for $350, he isn't local to you, but he is in California. The 428 industrial block I used for my engine came from him. He shipped it to Detroit Metro Airport on Forward Air for a reasonable cost. I just had to pick it up from there.

Thanks, this is a great resource. I've got an email into DSC Motorsports and am planning to give them a call later today.

I've been a member of this forum for almost 7 years now and still remain impressed with the depth of knowledge and helpfulness of members.

~Steve

[RAVEN]

Some of us have been around these cars longer than we have had our drivers licences. LOL and I am still learning some tricks or have forgotten others.

[sseebart]

After a brief and fruitless text exchange with a Craigslist seller purporting to have an "unmolested" FE, I discovered a Thunderbird dismantler on eBay with numerous blocks available, most tested and machined, including the installation of cam bearings. I was able to purchase a block with a cast date just a few weeks prior to the build date of my car. The seller is in Southern California, but offered free delivery--he was already planning on a NorCal run in December anyhow.

As an added bonus, the block was both mag and sonic tested prior to rebuilding. These were the results of the sonic testing.

The seller's handle is "freedomleather" and he has about 2000 Thunderbird parts listed in his store. Prices are not cheap, but he does offer discounts if you can show that your car is listed in the Thunderbird Registry: https://www.ebay.com/str/freedomleather

~Steve

[Terry64HT]

I have purchased from him in the past with good results.
Terry
64HT

[mnpetri]

... I discovered a Thunderbird dismantler on eBay with numerous blocks available, most tested and machined, including the installation of cam bearings. I was able to purchase a block with a cast date just a few weeks prior to the build date of my car...
As an added bonus, the block was both mag and sonic tested prior to rebuilding...
~Steve

sounds like a nice "win"
Good luck moving forward.

[jtschug]

Looks pretty good. Are you going to take it up to 4.09" and re-use the pistons?

[paulr]

I have purchased from him in the past with good results.
Terry
64HT

I second that. This guy (Gary) knows as much detail about the car as anyone. He's not the cheapest, but he might be able to steer you from buying the wrong part. I found that if you get him on the phone, he gets more liberal with the advertised price. He's also involved with the Thunderbird Registry which everyone should take a look at and consider registering. (PS I am not involved with the registry--no ad royalties here )

[sseebart]

Looks pretty good. Are you going to take it up to 4.09" and re-use the pistons?

No. With my recent experience, I'm going on enjoy all the wall thickness I can get.

Last time I bought pistons, the choices were between cast and forged. Now there's something called "hypereutectic," apparently a cast piston with a large amount of silicon in the aluminum. Wondering if anyone knows more about them and how they compare.

~Steve

[jtschug]

Hyper-eutectic pistons are cast pistons with more silicon which leads to more dimensional stability at high temperature.

Almost all pistons in new gasoline engines are made with hyper-eutectic alloys. The exceptions are some forced induction and racing engines. Hyper-eutectic pistons are a bit more brittle than forged pistons. So under very high loads, they could break. However, for a stock 390 rebuild, that isn't getting a supercharger or nitrous, a hypereutectic cast piston should provide more than adequate performance.

[sseebart]

Hyper-eutectic pistons are cast pistons with more silicon which leads to more dimensional stability at high temperature.

Almost all pistons in new gasoline engines are made with hyper-eutectic alloys. The exceptions are some forced induction and racing engines. Hyper-eutectic pistons are a bit more brittle than forged pistons. So under very high loads, they could break. However, for a stock 390 rebuild, that isn't getting a supercharger or nitrous, a hypereutectic cast piston should provide more than adequate performance.

I'm sold!

[sseebart]

Anyone got any ideas on how best to remove the main bearing caps? I can wiggle one of them, but the rest are tightly seated. Was thinking about smacking them with a rubber mallet, or perhaps lifting the whole crank out with a hoist, caps and all. (The caps and block are going to the scrapyard, but I do want to salvage the crank.)

~Steve

[jtschug]

Sometimes you can insert the bolts halfway into the cap (but not the block) and get some leverage to wiggle the caps out.

I wouldn't use the crank to pull out the caps.

[bbogue]

When recovering from my engine’s “rebuild from hell,” I consulted several times with the experts (some professional, some not) on the Ford FE Engine Forum (now in Tapatalk). MUCH helpful information was offered. So much so that if I were having my engine rebuilt again I’d be making a road trip as necessary to have one of these guys rebuild my engine. In following the forum, I have been especially impressed with Brett Lykins of Lykins Motorsports. He has great advice and appears to be able to recommend and provide appropriate parts, depending on the intent of the rebuild. You might give him a ring. Good luck.

Bill

[paulr]

Anyone got any ideas on how best to remove the main bearing caps? I can wiggle one of them, but the rest are tightly seated. Was thinking about smacking them with a rubber mallet, or perhaps lifting the whole crank out with a hoist, caps and all. (The caps and block are going to the scrapyard, but I do want to salvage the crank.)

~Steve

IMG_20181120_123315.jpg

Side to side whacks with a rubber mallet. Bring the bolts up half way to use as something to grab on with your hands. You won't damage the crank by doing this--go hard. Also, to get better handholds, keep turning the crank quarter turns to expand room for grabbing.
If you're reusing the crank, one thing my dad made me do (that actually stuck in my mind) was to not lay it down after removal. Those things are soft and will easily warp if laying prone out of an engine. Wrap the thing up good in bubble wrap or old towels, and keep it standing on end somewhere out of the way of possible nicks, bumps, etc.

[stubbie]

Get yourself a 428 crank and some 410 pistons and make a 406.