Had power at the 60A circuit breaker & at the smaller breaker in the fuse bay. Had power at the control switch. Next logical step to me was to pull the back seat and use the individual relays to open up the trunk (I have the relay replacement unit). Relays didn't work either, but the bus bar had power. Thankfully the deck lid was unlocked so I went ahead and unbolted the rams so I could open the deck. Disconnected the rams and got the decklid propped up. Went over everything and checked connections. Found a bad/weak ground at the pump, but still nothing would work. Bus bar would lose voltage any time I touched a relay override button.
Now I'm suspicious of the circuit breakers or the neutral safety relay. I rig up a long jumper wire with an alligator clip so I can run power directly from the battery to the relay unit. Everything works perfectly.
Now I start tracing back to see where things went wrong. Started with the hot side of the 60A circuit breaker. No power. Quickly loosened and re-tightened the connections at the starter relay and the circuit breaker. Everything works again without the jumper.
So I dismantled a significant portion of the car to fix a 12" wire that is easily accessible from under the hood.
Not all is lost.
- I understand the top much better now (although there is still a lot that I don't understand)
- I'm using the opportunity to tidy up a bit.
- I've replaced some connections to head off future problems.
- I've run wires in loom from the relays to under the rear ashtray (emergency power, deck unlock, deck open).
- I'm going back to a factory head unit (with the Bluetooth upgrade) while I have stuff pulled apart.
- Next time I'm going to check resistance, not just voltage.