Removing Coil Springs

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sseebart
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Removing Coil Springs

Post by sseebart »

I spent three hours yesterday pulling a coil spring out of my '64 with a compressor borrowed from O'Reilly's. While, yes, I was able to get the spring out, now that it's on the bench, I've run into a snag.

This particular compressor has a metal plate at the top and two hooks at the bottom, connected with a 10" shaft. There's not much space between the coils for this kind of tool, and the way the spring bows out with the wheel dropped only makes the problem worse. I used a crowbar and a mallet to get the top plate inserted, just a crowbar to open up the lower coils for the hooks.

The first two attempts, I wasn't able to grab enough coils. (At least 8 have to be compressed to have any chance at removal.) Here, I've only got 6:
Image

Moving moving the plate up higher was nearly impossible, so I compressed the spring (opening up the unsprung coils) and cut some hardwood blocks to use as spacers. Then I decompressed the spring and forced the top plate in with a mallet:
Image

I had just enough of the spring compressed to remove it:

Image

I moved the compressed spring to a bench to decompress it, but found that the 10" shaft was too short to allow me to remove the tool. At this stage, there's about 1/2" of shaft remaining to unscrew, but the spring is still under some tension. I think I could safely remove it (as long as nothing is in the line of fire when the tool pops free) but obviously, I'm going to have a difficult time recompressing it.

Image

I can leave the tool where it is (though I suspect they are going to want it back before I can get the spring re-installed), or I can remove it and use a different tool to reinstallation. My preference is to find a different tool, which will not only help with reinstallation, but will make the other spring an easier chore. Wondering if anyone has done this job recently and what sort of compressor they used. (Maybe someone has a vintage Moog compressor or the original Ford tool they'd be willing to lend out? Would I pay shipping? You bet I would . . . and more.)

~Steve
jtschug
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Re: Removing Coil Springs

Post by jtschug »

I just bought one of these in mint condition:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moog-T-469-Coil ... SwaB5XvMjd

It works exactly like the tool in the shop manual. When I opened it up there were even special instructions for the 62-66 Thunderbird. They suggested removing some of the curve out of the spring by jacking the hub up a little bit.
1966 Thunderbird Convertible (Emberglo / White-Emberglo)
Modified 428 - stroked, rollercam, aluminum top end, headers
Livermore, CA
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sseebart
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Re: Removing Coil Springs

Post by sseebart »

jtschug wrote:They suggested removing some of the curve out of the spring by jacking the hub up a little bit.
I did the same, though with the rental tool I have, the curve reduction was offset by closing the gap between the coils
jtschug wrote:I just bought one of these in mint condition:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moog-T-469-Coil ... SwaB5XvMjd

It works exactly like the tool in the shop manual.
And, yes, I'd love to get my hands on that tool. But for $400 (for a tool I'll use rarely), I think I could tow the ol' bird down to a shop and have them install the front end parts I already bought.

I've called around and the few tool rental companies that have spring compressors only have this type:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... mDetailTab_

This one would give me an additional 4" of length to work with, but at $35, it's surely made cheaply and (I suspect) has the capacity for a catastrophic failure.

~Steve
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paulr
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Re: Removing Coil Springs

Post by paulr »

jtschug wrote:I just bought one of these in mint condition:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moog-T-469-Coil ... SwaB5XvMjd

It works exactly like the tool in the shop manual. When I opened it up there were even special instructions for the 62-66 Thunderbird. They suggested removing some of the curve out of the spring by jacking the hub up a little bit.
Steve,
You notice how the Moog tool has UNC threads distinguishing it from the O'Reilly tool threads? That's what I was talking about earlier. I think that detail is critical for what you're doing. The O'Reilly tool may work well on a Camry.

Maybe buy the Moog anyway, and then set up a little sharing-community business afterward...Air-Moog?
Paul
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"Beer, now there's a temporary solution!" ~Homer Simpson
jtschug
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Re: Removing Coil Springs

Post by jtschug »

I dropped the $400 because every other spring compressor I looked at scared the $h*t out of me. Unfortunately they don't make them like this anymore.
1966 Thunderbird Convertible (Emberglo / White-Emberglo)
Modified 428 - stroked, rollercam, aluminum top end, headers
Livermore, CA
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sseebart
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Re: Removing Coil Springs

Post by sseebart »

paulr wrote:Maybe buy the Moog anyway, and then set up a little sharing-community business afterward...Air-Moog?
Or resell it when done, perhaps.

I remembered that someone recently went through this, and found this thread from Snowcone, where he made his own tool. Not sure I want to go that route, though: http://www.vintagethunderbirdclub.net/p ... =7&t=12278
jtschug wrote:Unfortunately they don't make them like this anymore.
Nor do they even rent them like this any more. Can't really blame then, since this tool is complete overkill for modern cars.

After further research, I've definitely decided I'm not going to use this borrowed compressor to put the spring back in. I'll definitely need to find something else.

~Steve
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Re: Removing Coil Springs

Post by jtschug »

On the plus side, I do see them sell on ebay every few months. They aren't so common the price is driven down, so conceivably, you could buy it, use it, and sell it and only take a loss on the shipping and fees. Sort of like renting, but with a big deposit.
1966 Thunderbird Convertible (Emberglo / White-Emberglo)
Modified 428 - stroked, rollercam, aluminum top end, headers
Livermore, CA
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sseebart
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Re: Removing Coil Springs

Post by sseebart »

jtschug wrote:On the plus side, I do see them sell on ebay every few months. They aren't so common the price is driven down, so conceivably, you could buy it, use it, and sell it and only take a loss on the shipping and fees. Sort of like renting, but with a big deposit.
Yep, this is the way I'm gonna go. Bought the thing just now.

~Steve
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Re: Removing Coil Springs

Post by tbird »

Paul
The Moog tool has what is called a Acme thread which is a very coarse square cut thread made for use under high tension. Even using it it takes a lot of cranking to get the spring compressed sufficiently to remove it.

I have rented mine out on a flat rate basis locally cost of shipping would be high it is heavy.
Jim Mills
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paulr
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Re: Removing Coil Springs

Post by paulr »

tbird wrote:Paul
The Moog tool has what is called a Acme thread which is a very coarse square cut thread .
Yes, I spotted that right after I finished posting. Thanks for the correction, Jim. Gotta take the extra 10 seconds to "Preview".
Paul
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"Beer, now there's a temporary solution!" ~Homer Simpson
WhiteThunder
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Re: Removing Coil Springs

Post by WhiteThunder »

I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to put this out there for anyone in this situation looking to do front end work.
I ended up making a half homemade spring compressor that was easy to use and plenty safe. I started with 3/4“ Acme threaded rod, nuts and grade 8 washers purchased from Coremark Metals for very reasonable prices. I then obtained some 3/8”-thick scrap metal plate. I lucked out and found a listing on eBay for a set of #1 MOOG compressor plates for $60 shipped. I was planning on fabricating a bottom plate with the metal plate, but the MOOG plates made it much cleaner and easier.

I did not need any thrust bearings, just some grease and the upper nut was very easy to turn with a wrench. The 3/4” acme thread had plenty of strength and I was able to compress the spring far enough up to completely free the upper control arm. I left the acme thread long enough that I could remove the spring if needed.
The spring curve was not an issue when compressing the springs. When releasing the springs, I just had to use a long screwdriver to wedge the spring back into its seat as it extended down.

All in, this cost me $90. One could easily use 1” rod if so inclined, but 3/4” rod has plenty of safety factor if you calc it out.
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