Which engine gasket kit?

[blab]

Hi,

I want to take off the heads and get them planed, then mount the exhaust manifolds just with the metal heat shield in between.

I'll need new intake manifold gaskets etc for this. Is this a good kit?

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php ... 81&jsn=548

It also comes with valve stem seals which would be a plus.

Any recommendations for a good brand?

Thanks.

[bbogue]

I'm not an expert...just a guy who learned a lot while recovering from his rebuild-from-hell experience. The folks on this forum as well as on the Ford FE Engine forum were very helpful. You might want to check over there as well. Victor Reinz seems to be held in high regard. I learned that the intake manifold front and rear gaskets are not typically used...a sealant like Permatex Ultra Black or similar is used instead. Since the heads are coming off you might consider "positive" type Viton valve guide seals for better oil control than the rubber umbrella seals. Some machining of the OD of the valve guides is required.

Best of luck.

Bill

[blab]

Hi Bill,

thanks for the FE forum tip, will ask there too. I'll also read up on Viton.

[bbogue]

blab,

Umbrella valve guide seals ride up and down on the valve stems. Positive-type seals grip the valve stem guide, stay in place, and wipe the stem as it moves. Teflon positive-type seals were popular in the late 20th century and are great for high temperatures but wipe the valve stems less well, I suppose due to the hardness of teflon. Viton is a softer material but also good for high temperatures. Viton valve seals are very popular with 21st century engine rebuilders. My rebuilder used teflon positive-type valve seals and did not reinstall the "drip tins" under the rockers. The result was poor valve guide sealing and elimination of a path for oil to drain from the rocker area. As a result, my engine used oil noticeably. When I changed out the valve guide seals to Viton and reinstalled drip tins oil usage was eliminated.

Positive-type valve seals come in a variety of sizes, e.g., 0.560", 0.530", and 0.510". Some of the mfrs sell the tools used to reduce the OD of the valve guides to suit the size of the seal being installed. A little rubber condom-type thingie goes over the end of the valve stem during installation so the groove in the stem doesn't cut the seal.

Sorry for the treatise. Saturday morning and not a lot going on.

Good luck.

Bill

[blab]

Thank you. I think I saw your FE forum thread. Did you get the tool to machine the valve guides? Which size did you choose?

This is the first time I'm working on the engine internals. Not sure if this isn't too much for me.

A friend suggested to pull the engine because it would be much easier to do the work. Any thoughts on this?

[bbogue]

Thank you. I think I saw your FE forum thread. Did you get the tool to machine the valve guides? Which size did you choose?

This is the first time I'm working on the engine internals. Not sure if this isn't too much for me.

A friend suggested to pull the engine because it would be much easier to do the work. Any thoughts on this?

My valve guides were machined by the rebuilder. They were about 0.522" after machining and the rebuilder said he used the standard tool so I assume the tool for 0.530" seals must cut slightly smaller. The 0.530" Viton seals went on pretty snugly. Comp Cams has the tools and videos as to how it's done. I assume this size seal was chosen by the rebuilder to minimize the amount of material to be removed.

I assumed you were removing the heads and taking them to a machine shop. If so, I'd let them do all the machine work and give me back a reassembled head ready to go back on the engine.

Pulling the engine was done for me by a shop. Doing what you plan might grow to that if you break off exhaust manifold studs. But if I were to pull a 50+ year old engine I'd be looking to completely rebuild it...well beyond my ability.

Good luck.

Bill

[bbogue]

Oops. Broken exhaust studs does not mean pull the engine. Just more machine work.

Bil

[blab]

Thanks for explaining the valve guide procedure.

Machine shops are not that common here. I still have to find one and see what they do.

Not going for a full rebuild right now, but with the engine out I can have a better look at the condition and see if there's something urgent.

[bbogue]

You might try posting an inquiry to see what others have done in your situation in your country. Good luck.

Bill.

[sseebart]

Not going for a full rebuild right now, but with the engine out I can have a better look at the condition and see if there's something urgent.

It's also a good opportunity to clean up the engine bay and paint the motor.

~Steve

[blab]

True. I also have to do the servo system again. Should be much easier too.

[RAVEN]

Blab; another view on gasket sets:
Depending on level of rebuild/teardown of your motor, you stated pulling/doing exhaust gaskets first, I will give my slant on re/re.
The FELPRO general motor full teardown gasket set is numbered FS8554PT, (priced at approx. $130.00 CDN) and looks equal to the set you posted earlier. (note: did not compare gasket for gasket). And is over kill if only doing intake and exhaust replacement. BUT does give you the valve stem seals!
If doing only Intake gaskets the FELPRO set #MS90145 applies, (priced at $30 CDN) (note this set does not have head gaskets), but does have the cork valley gaskets, which everyone do not use but replaced by RTV material as noted earlier.
The exhaust METAL gasket seals are a stand alone item used on Birds and is numbered FELPRO #MS95000. (approx. $40.00 CDN)
AGAIN depending on your level of tear down, you can mix and match your needs by using the General set #FS8554PT and adding the metal shields #MS9500, and this will leave you with extra seals (eg timing cover,pan gasket,valve seals, water pump seals, thermostst seal, and on and on.) But you will need to order head gasket seals separate, if ordering only the intake set.
After just finishing my third 390 motor, in my home shop, using Felpro seals, and never having an issue in 30 plus years, I feel comfortable in giving this info.
Take the time to analysis your needs, and level of how far and what you need for the job at hand.
IF you are only wanting to do the heads and respective manifolds then pulling the top of the engine in the car can be done, BUT YOU NEED A STRONG BACK!!! As it has been said "Been there dunn that". Top end repairs do not need to pull the engine, just some muscles.

Good luck and have fun.

Wally K

[blab]

Hi Wally,

thanks for the many options.

I think I'll go with a full set plus MS95000.

>> strong back

I have no idea how heavy the parts are, the intake manifold for ex. Would take the cherry picker anyway. :-)

[RAVEN]

How does an intake at about 50-60 odd pounds (25/30 kilos) straight armed and with a bent back over the fenders! OR heads at 40 odd pounds (20 kilos) bent over your fenders
This is not a one man job if you wish to walk tomorrow, or doing it really safely. The engine hoist is a VERY smart idea.

Keep in touch, and take your time, the old gaskets can be a challenge to separate, after several years being "glued together

W

[sseebart]

The engine hoist is a VERY smart idea.

Amen!