Replace oil pan

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paulr
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Re: Replace oil pan

Post by paulr »

Originally, my car had a vinyl/hard plastic washer, and it didn't leak. Since I've been changing oil, though, I've only found the metal washers available. No leaks.
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Re: Replace oil pan

Post by RAVEN »

The best description I can give, is a flat metal washer with an integral o ring centre. My 2010 Chevy pick up, my wifes 09 Pontiac Vibe, and every commercial landscape mower, (Walker, Toro, Wright, John Deere) I own, and or maintain has one. They come in various sizes, and are readily available. With that many applications and manufactures using them, I would think that they are tested true. I have never seen them leak, when installed properly, but they do have a life cycle, of only a few ON OFF tension cycles. But at a price of around a dollar, they are a cheap seal, with no oil stains on the floor.
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Richard
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Re: Replace oil pan

Post by Richard »

Back under the Bird at 5AM EST before work...After about 20 hours after I put the metal/rubber washer in there is not more leak,not even the smallest speck..Cant believe my mechanic wanted me to change the oil pan..I think time for a new mechanic for this and a few other issues..And I will be doing all my own oil changes from now on too..Going to buy a bunch of the washers and put a new one on each oil change,cheap enough..
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Richard
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Re: Replace oil pan

Post by Richard »

RAVEN wrote:The best description I can give, is a flat metal washer with an integral o ring centre. My 2010 Chevy pick up, my wifes 09 Pontiac Vibe, and every commercial landscape mower, (Walker, Toro, Wright, John Deere) I own, and or maintain has one. They come in various sizes, and are readily available. With that many applications and manufactures using them, I would think that they are tested true. I have never seen them leak, when installed properly, but they do have a life cycle, of only a few ON OFF tension cycles. But at a price of around a dollar, they are a cheap seal, with no oil stains on the floor.
Raven, Taking this thread still a little further..On the drain bolt head side it seems to be cutting into the rubber a little. Does any of your machinery use a second washer on that side? Do you think that is a good idea? That said just back under the car and no leak!!!
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Re: Replace oil pan

Post by RAVEN »

No, the seal washer is "crushed" or squezzed between the crankcase (oil pan) and the drain plug. The oring has a small sharp lip which is the sealing surface, so by ading a back up washer, you potentially create a leak path. The note here is, over tightening is not recommended, as it can create a leak due to distortion of the seal surfaces. If no leak exists then leave it alone and the torque you applied is perfect.
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Krubba
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Re: Replace oil pan

Post by Krubba »

So since my old oil pan was trash, I jacked up engine using the oil pan and blocked out the mounts. Pretty sure jacking up the new oil pan is a no no, so still hoping for some advice on how else to jack it down with new pan on. Or do i need to get an engine hoist?

Also, in case anyone else stumbles on here, when dropping oil pump into pan, you also need to pop shaft up out of the pump. Then To find the crank counterweight sweet spot, I cranked engine like 2 clicks of a socket wrench at a time, testing pan each time. When position's right, pan just slides out.
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Re: Replace oil pan

Post by tbird »

Krubba

When you have the new pan installed place a 2 x 4 long enough to go right across the oil pan to spread the load and then jack it up should be no damage to the pan , unless it is possibly made in one of those far off places.
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Krubba
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Re: Replace oil pan

Post by Krubba »

Thanks Jim. I used a 2x4 on old pan, front to back though, and it definitely didn't like it. Mind you it was already compromised... Will try that and take baby steps :)
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Re: Replace oil pan

Post by tbird »

Some people jack on the damper pulley but it is hard to get at with a jack on these cars and can have a tendency to want to roll over on you. Could also use a piece of ¾" plywood that would fit the entire sump area and then place the 2 x 4 across that right at the front of the pan then it is supported by the vertical metal on three sides, have not had a issue with either way denting the pan.
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Re: Replace oil pan

Post by RAVEN »

Years ago I pulled my pan to change out the oil pump to a high volume unit to make up for some engine wear. If memory is correct I took a 2x4 and drilled in a half circle. Maybe it was a 2x6, regardless, and made a support to fit between the pulley and the front timing chain cover. Using a jack I was able to raise the engine, via the crankshaft. No pressure on balancer, and half circle was tight enough to prevent engine roll over. Just a vertical push. Its a thought.
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Krubba
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Re: Replace oil pan

Post by Krubba »

Oh man, this oil pan thing is no fun!

Got block all cleaned up, bolts, bolt holes, straightened my purchased Taiwanese pan a bit :\

Dropped oil pump and shaft into pan, put pan into place and struggled pump back into place.

My question is, should I concern myself with putting some silicone on the gasket, cause can't really do that until oil pump is in place, otherwise it's a mess of smeared silicone everywhere...

It's proving tricky enough to get the gasket in place dry. At this point I just have back 2 bolts in, through holes in gasket, and was going to work gasket up slowly like that. But I think the gasket got twisted, so need to take it off and try again...

Btw, just using a cork felpro gasket
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Richard
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Re: Replace oil pan

Post by Richard »

Even though never had to change mine was told by my mechanic that you first adhere the gasket with spray glue first to hold it in place while you put pan back in.
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Joe Johnston
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Re: Replace oil pan

Post by Joe Johnston »

I've never been a real fan of silicone products, but the correct one for the application will work fine. Gas and or oil will soften some in time, and they must be fully cured before putting into service, so be sure to buy an applicable product. I do however find "The Right Stuff" made by Permatex to be an excellent product for almost all uses sealing water, gas and oil. If you are using a cork pan gasket and The Right Stuff, be sure to only use the sealer between the gasket and the oil pan. (The Right Stuff is strong and if you use it on both sides of the gasket you will have difficulty getting the pan off the next time) Do not coat both sides of the gasket! The bottom of the engine block is machined flat and smooth and will seal to the cork and often a light film of grease is used on the surface with a cork gasket to allow removal at a later date. Any irregularities from the gasket to the pan will be sealed by the sealer. Not a pleasant job, but putting it back together is the fun and clean part!
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