Steering Box and Engine Bump Stop? Question

[michaelperazzo]

I am removing my steering box to get it rebuilt. I removed the "pivot bracket" that goes around the area where the box couples with the column. I was then looking for either a rag joint style or a Pin with cotter key style joint where the column joins with the box. I found neither, I rotated the wheel a little to get a better look and found an allen head bolt going into the shaft. I was wondering if anyone has seen this setup before? The later years had rag joints IIRC. The car has a '64 engine and a C6 transmission so the box may have been changed too. The car was made in Sept. '62 so it should have a rag joint setup.

I also noticed what looks like a bump stop bolted to the fire wall above the bellhousing. With the engine mounts bolted down I can't imagine the motor/trans bouncing up and needing a stop in place to avoid damage. What is this for?

See Pics. Thanks!

[tbird]

The 62 did not have a rag joint it came in in late 62 /63 production. The allen setscrew is installed into a collar which is installed overtop of the splined coupler where the shaft is pined into the coupler with a split roll pin, loosen the setscrew move the coupler and drive the roll pin out then you should be able to remove the box.

The bump stop installed onto the firewall is also something that was used in 62, it was to address a issue of to much movement from the engine.

[Mheiron]

This is my '63 rag joint and steering box. The engine is out so access is not the problem. The job is a mother I'll tell you even with the engine out.

I just got it installed today. I used straps and my engine hoist.

Yours may be different.

I don't know what you call the weird sockets but they have them at O'Reillys cheap.

If the engine is in the car I'd suggest you remove the brake booster for easier access.

Hope something here helps.

Ask if you need more info.

[Mheiron]

Don’t forget the ground wire from the box to the fender.

[michaelperazzo]

Thanks for all the replies and help. The pics really help! Right now I am contending with the fuel line. It loops directly under the box, I need to bend it out of the way without damaging it to allow the box to come out. I think I can squeeze it past the exhaust pipe, might have to drop them as well. I can see that re installing this is going to be interesting. I think I will try the cherry picker idea, course I will have to pull the hood. I already have the booster and MC removed as part of another project, makes it a little easier.

[caseyc]

Hi everyone,
I was just dealing with this myself. Mine is the type with the pin. I found that the fuel line changes from steel to rubber hose then back to steel at the firewall just inside the driver side splash pan inside the fender. It looks like the whole front end came in as a seperate unit from the rest of the car then was bolted together. if you take the bolts out of the splash pan and pull it down you could seperate the steel from the rubber to get it out of the way should you need to. I hope this helps!

[michaelperazzo]

Ok so finally back to work on the bird after finishing another project. (70 El Camino engine swap) Box got rebuilt and just got re installed today. Had to un bolt the pipes and strap them out of the way. Got a strap wrapped around the box and then used a 3 inch pipe wedged across the middle of the cowl and shock tower, we twisted the pipe with the strap around it and sort of winched the box up into place. Had a guy under the car guiding, a guy "winching" and holding the pipe from turning, and another moving the steering wheel/column up and down and turning to line up the splines in the column to the splines in the box. Took about an hour. I previously spent a sweltering afternoon a few weeks back trying to use a floor jack to lift the box into place and failed... This other way was much easier and done in an hour.

I have a quick question, I lost the pin the locks the column to the box, anyone know what size it is and or where to get one?

[Aaron65]

Phew! I'm glad this topic came up...I'm going to replace mine this winter with the engine in the car, AND I almost always work alone. I guess I'll have to get creative.

[michaelperazzo]

Aaron, I had my master cylinder and booster removed because I am upgrading to a newer style booster and a dual MC. Its much easier to get to the steering column connection and the hose connections on the box this way! Just a FYI and good luck!

[Aaron65]

Thanks Michael!

[mullokintyre]

The 62 did not have a rag joint it came in in late 62 /63 production. The allen setscrew is installed into a collar which is installed overtop of the splined coupler where the shaft is pined into the coupler with a split roll pin, loosen the setscrew move the coupler and drive the roll pin out then you should be able to remove the box.

The bump stop installed onto the firewall is also something that was used in 62, it was to address a issue of to much movement from the engine.

I have been struggling to remove the steering box from my January 62 build coupe. It has the allen screw and collar which I have been able to removeafter a lot of effort. The question is, do I remove the box from the top or bottom< To remocv it from the top I presume I will have to remove the power brake booster (I have already removed the master cylinder), remove the bolts holding the engine to the motor mount, then jack up the engine to allow sufficient clearance to get it out. I have already removed the stiffener from the frame, the pitman arm from the bottom of the steering box, the three bolts holding the box to the frame.
To take it out from the bottom, I presume I need to remove the exhaust on the RHS , the pitman arm, the fuel lines, and still maybe jack up the engine.
Am I on the right track.
Thanks,
Mick

[Aaron65]

I pulled mine from the bottom (twice). I had to remove the pitman arm, but I was able to clear the exhaust (but most exhaust systems have been replaced by now, so yours might be different). It's a bear of a job, but only because the thing's so heavy and bulky - I lifted it in by hand while someone held the wheel straight so the splines aligned (mine's a '63 with a rag joint). After it got in, the subframe lip helped me hold it in place while I installed one of the three bolts loosely.

Just a warning - Don't try it this way if you're going to have a problem bench pressing 40 pounds straight up and holding it there for a minute!!! I'm not abnormally strong, but I think I've got "working on car" strength, and any other method was going to get in the way. If you're going to lower it from the top, you'll need another method (that others have described here on this website).

[Kiwi-Bird]

Sorry to hijack the thread
Michael Perazzo could you please post details about your booster and MC conversion

[mullokintyre]

I pulled mine from the bottom (twice). I had to remove the pitman arm, but I was able to clear the exhaust (but most exhaust systems have been replaced by now, so yours might be different). It's a bear of a job, but only because the thing's so heavy and bulky - I lifted it in by hand while someone held the wheel straight so the splines aligned (mine's a '63 with a rag joint). After it got in, the subframe lip helped me hold it in place while I installed one of the three bolts loosely.

Just a warning - Don't try it this way if you're going to have a problem bench pressing 40 pounds straight up and holding it there for a minute!!! I'm not abnormally strong, but I think I've got "working on car" strength, and any other method was going to get in the way. If you're going to lower it from the top, you'll need another method (that others have described here on this website).

Yeah, well at 70 I struggle to bench press a bowl of custard. Will head down to the local Gym and see if I can rustle up a volunteer!

[bbogue]

My experience.
I removed and replaced the steering gear box on my 61 about 7 years ago. After reading about their excellent rebuilding process on this forum, I did a swap for a rebuilt one from Redhead Steering.
https://redheadsteeringgears.com/
I don’t see one at their site now for our era cars but they might be worth a call. Excellent product but expensive. All slop in steering is removed.
I removed my steering box mostly alone. A beefy piece of hickory was laid on towels across the corner of the engine bay. A piece of steel cable was tied off as a safety lanyard. I strongly advise using one. I used a strong cord tied to the box and wrapped around the hickory to raise and lower the box by winding or unwinding the cord as the piece of hickory was turned. Hell of a job but I was younger then, 64.
Best of luck.

Bill