Thanks redbird1

How to's when detailing your Thunderbird
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pops
Posts: 67
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 7:20 pm
Location: Richfield, Ohio

Thanks redbird1

Post by pops » Sat Jun 08, 2013 10:39 am

For the below cleaning and claying procedure:

To begin, I am a strong advocate of never using soap to wash a vehicle, because it strips the wax off the finish.
Stripping the wax of the existing finish is necessary before using a clay bar, or the plumber's putty I chose.
I used dawn blue dishwashing liquid to wash the car.
After the car was dried, I gathered the soft towels, the Meguiar's ultimate detail in the spray bottle, and the turtle wax I would use as the final coat of wax.
Doing roughly a 3' area at a time, I sprayed a light coat of the detail spray (I think one could use others, but this is a great lubricant for the clay bar, or putty) then form the putty to about a 3 or 4"x1,4" pad in the palm of your hand.
Rub vigorously, but make sure to use the lubricant often.
Don't let the surface you are rubbing dry out.
As you rub the finish, occasionally re-form the putty in your hand, and while doing so, you will see the crud the putty is removing from the finish.
These are the contaminants the soap could not remove.
These are embedded in the finish, and the putty is what will remove them.
After a section is clayed, buff it with a soft towel, or rag.
Move on to the next section to be clayed.
After you have the car completely clayed, run your fingers across the finish.
It will be smoother than glass.
Now, it's time for the coat of wax.
Again, do about 3 or 4 feet at a time.
After the waxing is done, stand back and enjoy.
One note, if by chance you drop the putty for whatever reason, throw it away, and start with a new piece.
Bob.

redbird1
Posts: 544
Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2010 1:57 am

Post by redbird1 » Sat Jun 08, 2013 6:53 pm

In my other post I said I would be doing my pickup.
Well today I only had time to just get started on it, but I did manage to get one fender done so I could see how the rest of the truck will look when finished.
I don't use a buffing machine, just good ole man power, and a soft rag.
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One thing for sure, you will never see me spending money on a clay bar when plumber's putty does just as good, if not better.
Bob.
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edpol
Posts: 1268
Joined: Sun May 09, 2010 4:26 pm

Post by edpol » Sun Jun 16, 2013 3:27 pm

In your first post, you mentioned Dawn. That's the choice of many auto body pros for the first step in the prep process. It's also good for removing oil from driveways, just be careful of laws prohibiting hosing oil into the street!
As for plumbers putty, what Redbird discovered shouldn't be too surprising. Take the time to do some research, as he did, you'll find lots of materials packaged for specific needs, yet are useful for many applications, and are often less expensive if you take the time to look.
For instance, I had a customer whose uncle invented 2000 Flushes. He announced his idea at a family picnic. His uncle's idea? Chlorine tablets for swimming pools, repackaged as commode cleaners. (If anyone remembers, they did not turn the water blue like the competitors.) Some of his family members thought he was nuts.
Ever watch American Restoration? Rick uses talcum powder or corn starch to remove swirl marks.

Lester
Posts: 106
Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2014 2:17 pm

Re: Thanks redbird1

Post by Lester » Thu Dec 29, 2016 5:56 pm

Pops, what kind of plumbers putty do you use, is it sort of solid like a clay bar? Most I have seen is more liquidy kind of brush-on stuff.

Thanks,
Lester

Eagle_Eye96
Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2017 11:24 am

Re: Thanks redbird1

Post by Eagle_Eye96 » Wed Jan 25, 2017 10:13 am

Thanks for sharing this. I will do the same on my car, from now on.

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