Rear suspension tips 64-66/EDIT Mike Eaton of Eaton Detroit Spring video technical info and mod mistakes

This area is open to"How-To" section only for tutorials on fixes, etc. (no profanities/etc.). NO FOR SALE POSTINGS

Moderator: redstangbob

s1nemesis1s
Posts: 58
Joined: Wed Apr 17, 2019 3:17 am

Re: Rear suspension tips 64-66/EDIT Mike Eaton of Eaton Detroit Spring video technical info and mod mistakes

Post by s1nemesis1s »

RAVEN wrote: Mon Aug 19, 2019 9:31 pm Not trying to be negative, but I truly think a good look in the SHOP MANUAL, would help you out. Look in section 17-1 pg 17.7 it explains lifting, Frame Contact points and such. It will give you the most supportive points on the car.
Secondly using Acetone as a solvent to desolve ATF for a penetrating oil in my opinion is a waste of time, it flashes off so fast, it will never really allow the oil to penetrate. Use a proper penetrating oil, will work far better. IMHO.
Not being negative at all - I trust you guys and your experience a lot more than a reprint of a shop manual. Sometimes there are tips you guys have that beat the manual hands down - if I did everything by the manual I would still be trying to put my heater core in :smile:
I will give it a look for sure, I just wanted to pull on the community experience before doing so.

I thought the ATF mix was a waste of time too - however after using it on a Michigan car to do some front end work - wow, was pretty amazed. It came in second place on "project farm," on youtube, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs&t=328s - While the methods are not totally scientific the results are pretty neat. I think I will add a can of liquid wrench (first place) to the arsenal in case it does evaporate too quickly.
s1nemesis1s
Posts: 58
Joined: Wed Apr 17, 2019 3:17 am

Re: Rear suspension tips 64-66/EDIT Mike Eaton of Eaton Detroit Spring video technical info and mod mistakes

Post by s1nemesis1s »

Teeron wrote: Mon Aug 19, 2019 8:11 pm On my '63, just ahead of the rear wheels and inboard of the pinch welds on the sills is a flat plate, just over an inch wide and a few inches long. I used a ply wood packing strip between that and a jack stand. It was very solid. As a back up I also used a pair of jack stands under the cross member ahead of the rear bumper. The front pair of stands took all the weight, and the rear stands were just in case. I was working on tarmac so I had my jack stands on plywood squares. Probably wouldn't need that on a concrete floor. Whatever set up you use, give the car a good shake before you get under it.

I used a third set of jack stands to support the axle, and I did one spring at a time to avoid loosing control of it.
Thank you! I will get under the car, and take a look today at what I have going on - this helps motivate me:) :smile:
Post Reply