Fuel Injection!

[RedBird64]

Care to join me while I stumble, swear and bleed my way through the installation of Holley's Sniper EFI?!

The sniper is available in three finishes; Black, bright silver and classic Holley um.. green er, gold. What ever.
Since my eng is black, I chose the same.
For about $200 more, you can get a unit that looks just like the classis Holley 4 bbl.

Our cars are always a little different than the typical muscle car that get these kinds of mods. I hope I can address some of the engineering challenges of installing EFI on our 390's that most folks woud run into.

Much more to come.

Cheers,
Scott

[RedBird64]

Electrical
Holley tells me the Sniper pulls around 15~25 amps. If your alt. is the orig, 35A unit then it will need to be updated. Even with the 65A alt, your electrical system will be strained at idle and you may find that the added load of an EFI will cause it to discharge. There's also the size of the vehicles original wiring and especially, the charge circuit. It looks to me like the main feed is a 10AWG wire which is marginal for even stock operation.
In my thread here: https://www.vintagethunderbirdclub.net/ ... 25&t=16562 I talked about upgrading my alt. to a 100A, one wire unit to make sure I had enough power available.

Scott

[RedBird64]

Water tempertaure sending unit

The Holley EFI requires you to use their own water temp. sending unit. The thread for the OEM Ford part is 1/8"NPT while the Holley is 3/8" NPT. I don't have a stock intake manifold in front of me so I cannot tell you if its boss is big enough to be drilled out to accept the larger sender.

I have a Edelbrock intake manifold that already has the 3/8NPT size hole for the sender. Previously, I used an adapter on to fit the OEM sender to the bigger hole. I have elected to use that port (in the oem position) for the Holley's sending unit and place the OEM sensor elsewhere.
To move the OEM sending unit, I removed the 90 degree nipple at the front of the intake manifold that feeds the heater core, and drill and tap it to accept the OEM sender. I used a 21/64 drill for the hole and tapped it with an 1/8-27 NPT tap. The metal is soft and easy to work but a drill press comes in handy here. As you can see, the fitting is ample thick.


There's plenty of room for water to circulate around the OEM sender. You might be able to put the Holley sender here but it would be more restrictive and you could lose some heater power. Otherwise, there would be no other issues like overheating, etc.


I also had to extend my temp sender wire a few inches. Every connection is soldered and heatshrinked. (And of course, parts are repainted!)

[RedBird64]

Oxygen sensor

The EFI's puter needs to monitor oxygen levels in the exhaust. I found a place on top of the exhaust pipe on the passenger side just after it leaves the exhaust manifold to put it that is both easy to drill and functionally perfect . I actually drilled it just as you see in the pic. The kit comes with a plate to accept the sensor that simply clamps over a hole in the exhaust. No welding required although I think it would be preferred. Here's what the kit looks like: https://www.ebay.com/p/Oxygen-Sensor-Bu ... 3373575235
I used a 1/4" bit and then finished it up with a stepper bit ($13 Harbor freight!) to get the perfect size clean hole. Drilling was surprisingly easy in the heat cycled, SS exhaust.
For reference, the tube on the right is for the trans dipstick.


Unfortunately, the clamps they provide are too big for our stock, 2" exhaust. This is a lesson I learned the hard way after wrestling with these stupid clamps and eventually destroying them.


I ended up getting 2 each, 2" common saddle clamps from Orielly's to secure the 02 sensor port.


Top side view:


View from bottom: (Not as close to starter as they look)


At this point I realised I made my first tactical mistake. I will need to move the car in order to perform future steps and burn off some fuel. On the Holley forum they stipulate: "The engine is not to be run with an unpowered 02 sensor". If you do, it will foul it.
So at this point I am waiting on an oxy sensor bung to plug that hole.

I welcome any comments! (Except on my writing skills. I know there's a couple of ex-English teachers on this form just waiting to pounce on even the slightest dangle of a participle)

[redstangbob]

O2 sensors are the same thread as your spark plug, use one to plug the hole. have fun

[RedBird64]

O2 sensors are the same thread as your spark plug, use one to plug the hole. have fun

Thanks Bob. I'd actually thought about that and tried to use a plug (not a peanut plug) from a dead lawn mower but it didn't fit.
You post jogged my memory that I have a spare plug in my "boonie box" and it fits.

Thanks again!
Scott

[stubbie]

Scott just wondering why you chose the Holley over say the Edelbrock efi that would maybe fit your manifold better.

[RAVEN]

OK, I will bite, what is a "boonie box"?. I might regret asking, but here goes.

[RedBird64]

Scott just wondering why you chose the Holley over say the Edelbrock efi that would maybe fit your manifold better.

Good question - I did a lot of reasearch before chosing.
All the 4150 style bases will fit our cars fine. For reference, the body of this unit is similar in shape to a Carter carb/Edelbrock carb. but that isn't really important.
The main reasons I decided on the Holley system is:

#1 erason is all the parts (injectors, sensors) are common, off-the-shelf components (Bosch). None of the wear parts are proprietary. So if an injector or some sensor fails, you can either get it from Holley or any miriad of other vendors - even NAPA or Orielly's. This also means I'll be able to get parts decades down the line.

There's no extraneous computer box. Everything is in the body of the EFI itself.

Holley has excellent support both on-line and via phone help lines. They also seem to be good at honoring their warranty .

It's American made.

So that's pretty much my reasoning. I'm sure the Edelbrock would perform good too.

Scott

[RedBird64]

OK, I will bite, what is a "boonie box"?. I might regret asking, but here goes.

It's a box of extra parts you might need like belts, spark plugs, SP wire, points, oil - anything that might leave you sitting in the boonies if you broke down. I stold the term from another forum.
S

[RAVEN]

On my beater, I call that my "trunk"

[Alan H. Tast]

FINALLY someone documented how to install one of these. This must be turned into a Scoop tech article once it's done. Scott, PM me in a few days to start the process. Thanks.

[RedBird64]

Sounds good Alan.

Bit of a setback today. My original plan was to use the gas tank drain fitting for the return line but after looking closer, that isn't the best way to go. While it's technically feasible, I would have to make a metal line that would run very close to the exhaust. A rubber line would cook and the routing just isn't good.
So I dropped the tank (took 30 minutes) and will drill a hole next to the existing sending unit. I'll use the existing fuel line as the return line and simply move the existing short rubber line that now goes to the tank supply to this new port. I wont have to change any hard lines in back or even the rubber one. The only new hard lines I'll have to make is for the entirely new supply line.
So the nearly new tank is out again and full of water and degreaser. After it soaks overnight, I'll drain, rinse and refill with water so I can drill the tank.
Having the tank out also gives me great access for mounting the EFI fuel pump and will make the whole job easier.

S

[RedBird64]

Looks like this project's completion will be delayed due to the availbility of some small parts I need - maybe 2 weeks or more.
I'm also dropping off my drive shaft today to get it inspected (mission creep!).

I did get the tank drilled.
After emptying the tank, I filled it with water and drilled. A tip I would give is to drill as close to the sending units hole as you can. Otherwise, it can be difficult to hold the fitting still on the inside while your tightening the nut on the outside.
To quickly dry the tank out, I used a shop vac. to blow air through the tank. After about an hour it was bone dry.



The kit comes with a straight hose barb for the tank return line. I ordered a 90 degree fitting For better line routing. Link: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Black-90 ... 25248.html

This is the retun line assembly the kit comes with:



More to come!

S

[RedBird64]

I had hoped I could come up with a plan to do this install easily but to do a nice job will take a lot more work.
I've installed and plumbed the fuel pump & filters and today I worked on this little art project.


This line (new high pressure supply ) basically follows the same path along the pinch weld under the car that the fuel line on the other side does and ends up going into the eng bay the same way through the fender well liner.

I'll work up a post to show all the components when I get the remaining parts I need.

S