Cooling options/upgrades

[krave]

I'm starting to look in to updating the cooling system on my 61 its got the 390,fpi headers (coated),Edelbrock manifold and carb, the rest is fairly stock. I am going to change out the radiator and saw that they run about $430 my question is are there any options in radiators...also I'm curious about the fan also are there any options electric,etc...

The main reason I'm starting to look in to this because I got stuck in traffic..( i know southern California traffic what a crazy thought) but my gauge which I think is accurate got all the way to within a 1/8 of the H..even finally getting one the freeway and moving 60+ mph the gauge really didn't come down..

Also were on the temp gauge do your cars run?

I'm looking to make the car as reliable/drive able as possible..so any advice I can get would be great...

Thanks...Gary

[62birdman]

I replaced my rad with an aluminum unit from Griffin, along with a16" electric fan that turns on at 185, and off at 165. I have had no problems, and the rad was about half the price of a replacement one.

[krave]

Thanks..on the radiator did you have to modify anything? I have seen some I didn't get the brand or price..But the trans cooler lines were on the drivers side..mine are on the passenger side..

Thanks...Gary

[bbogue]

My mildly modified (headers, bigger cam, roller rockers) non-A/C 390 in my 61 overheated (230F+) at idle in hot weather (90's) after it's rebuild, even with a new TBird vendor water pump, high efficiency 3-core radiator (USRadiator) and 6-blade mechanical fan. FWIW, I monitor the temp with an aftermarket coolant temp gauge which is at about 185F when my OE temp gauge is about midway and temps are confirmed with IR temp gauge.
Some of the things I have done since the overheating episodes include:
Fixed vacuum leaks - vacuum advance diaphragm, brake booster check valve, several mating surfaces of carburetor body and plates that mate to the carb.
Installed jets 2 sizes larger than stock in primary side of carb due to ethanol fuel.
Installed a fan shroud and thinner fan spacer so fan is half in - half out of the shroud.
Reduced antifreeze concentration from 60% to 50%. May reduce further next summer.
Replaced 180F thermostat which was slow to open fully with 160F high flow version.
Timing changes: Increased timing at idle (vacuum advance disconnected) to 16BTDC. Connected vacuum advance to "full manifold vacuum source". Adjusted vacuum advance to 10 degrees maximum. With 20 degrees centrifugal timing from the distributor, now have 16 + 20 = 36 degrees "total" timing. Total timing excludes timing from vacuum advance since vacuum falls off at full throttle. Additional timing from vacuum advance at idle and cruise helps cooling and fuel economy. Timing changes learned from Ford FE Engine forum. Very helpful folks over there.
Installed Spal "pusher" fan, activated by a manual switch.

In spite of all this, my engine coolant temp went to 210 when caught in traffic on a hot day in mid-summer. I have a high flow water pump on the shelf for installation this winter.
Don't we just love throwing money at these old cars?

Hope this helps.

[El Leon]

Had a better response, but I believe the mods deleted it. So here is the short version. PM me if interested in the rest.

Having just gotten my '63 Bird running and suffering with overheating nearly every drive in traffic (Seattle traffic can rival LA traffic in spots) during the summer, having a properly functioning cooling system was a priority. Here is what I have done and has prevented any overheating... In fact, she runs so cool that the auxiliary temp gauge barely moves!

1) rebuilt water pump with higher flow rate wheel
2) Flex fan (HUUUUUGE improvement over the stock fan, this thing really pulls air through the radiator at anything over idle)
3) 40/60 mix of coolant/water with one bottle of water wetter
4) lightened and overdriven pulley set (PM for brand, apparently this was an issue to say what manufacturer built something????). This will help flow rates.
5) 4-core full copper radiator (factory inlets/outlets/transmission lines)
6) Factory shrouds (upper/sides), but not running the clamshell "C" shroud that surrounds the fan.

Note: the previous owner had peppered the radiator, mucking up all the heater lines and most likely fouling the radiator. This was only discovered upon tear-down.