This is going to be a bit long but I read through the info on the link provided and picked some quotes that I can relate to. I can only say it seems to work for me BUT also consider that I do not do parades, do not have AC, but do drive in central FL with 90+ temps and humidity to match. My cooling systems on both the 57 and 63 are stock, including fan, fan shrouds, radiators, vacuum advances work (timed with vacuum gauges and my ears so advanced more than specs). The 312 and the 390 have both been recently rebuilt and have hardened valve seats, slightly higher compression and a cam changes, but nothing even getting close to radical by any means.
My engine builder suggested adding Marvel Mystery Oil (4 oz to 10 gal) and also Stybul to every tankful using E10. HIS claim was E10 is "dryer" or "less oily" and does not lubricate or leave an oily protecting film on stuff like E0. I have been doing that when I can't get E0 and have no problems overheating, or vapor lock/hard starting issues (YES I still run points and condensers on both cars!). Current carb on the 57 is an AFB that is well over 30 years old and the 63 is an original 4100. Both look good inside.
I guess each individual needs to find what will work for each of them, but if E0 is available that would be the first thing I would try (after all, ya probably need gas any way!)
No, can say in a sentance: Ethanol may run hotter in an engine not designed for it. Ethanol naturally burns slower than gasoline and is detonation resistant. It also takes a richer mixture since it does not produce as much energy. Now the games producers play to maintain the same PON (pump octane number) can include adding ethanol to lower octane gas to maintain the same flame propagation rate.
I suspect that the main issues with ethanol use are more related to the drying action which it has on the rubber components of the fuel system. As the "oils in the rubber" are depleted, it can crack and allow fuel to seep through it, which further deteriorates the item. I've recently heard of the inside-out action on fuel lines having the scenario that, as the ethanol dries out the inner layers of fuel lines, the fuel further seeps into the core reinforcement layer of the hose, then proceeds to the outer layers of the hose, which then flake off, leaving the inner reinforcement cord exposed . . . and fuel leaks can begin.
So lets stick to the effects of ethanol and how to compensate for them. Only real change I've made other than to use slightly richer jets is to use only new carb kits and fuel lines. That is one place that NOS should stay on the shelf.
ps is anyone else left who remebers how to drill out a jet ? Or is everyone a parts swapper now ?
only variable that I have no control over is the fuel mixture sold at the pumps here in California. Everything that I have read points to Ethanol gas as the problem for both the running hot and vapor locking.
My question is what am I supposed to do? Stop driving my car? Only drive when the temperature is cooler – which means leaving early in the morning and turning around and going home as soon as I arrive. The afternoons can get into the 90-100s here most of the year.
I have heard of adding diesel fuel, 2-cyle oil, transmission fluid, airplane gas, and other home brews to the gas tank. Does anyone know if these really compensates for the Ethanol in the gas? Will unauthorized additives in the gas tank help with both the vapor locking and the engine running hotter? What additive is best? What is the ratio? How much per gallon of gas do you add to the tank?
Regarding Mark Huston's question above, I've been adding 2-cycle engine oil to my older cars for a long time now and this has cured the vapor lock problems I've experienced. I use a couple of ounces per half-tank fill-up and I also add Stabil preservative. I keep the tanks on my cars full. Some people use Marvel Mystery Oil instead of 2-cycle oil which is fine but more expensive. Diesel fuel will work also but it contains sulfur which will corrode any yellow metals (brass, copper, bronze) with which it comes in contact so it is unsuitable for many prewar cars. The idea is to reduce modern fuel's volatility by adding oil to reduce the tendency of the fuel to vaporize in the lines at hot points.
Too often we enjoy the comfort of opinion without the discomfort of thought. J F K
55-57 VTCI Forum Moderator
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