Old Bird, New Build

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novanutcase
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Re: Old Bird, New Build

Post by novanutcase »

55Greg&Amy wrote:I have an attachment for mine that I hook up the shop vac to and it sucks out the dust. I also took the glass out of mine and put 6-8 layers of clear drawer liner on it then reinstalled the glass. When the glass gets hard to see thru I simply reach in and pull off a layer like the tear offs for windshields in Nascar. I started this because the first piece of glass lasted less than a year before it was unusable.
Great advice! One of my pet peeves with using blasters is the glass getting scratched so bad it gets hard to see the part you're blasting.

John
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El Leon
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Re: Old Bird, New Build

Post by El Leon »

Truesteve: Been following this thread for a while now, great progress!

Could have sworn I saw your white Bird for sale on Craigslist not too long ago here in the greater Seattle area.

Good luck with your build! We seem to have made some mutual decisions when it comes to parts and "flavor" of our build.
Stirling Moss once said “There are two things no man will admit he cannot do well: drive and make love.”

But then Albert Einstein replied, “Any man who can drive safely while kissing a pretty girl is simply not giving the kiss the attention it deserves.”
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truesteve
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Location: Spokane WA

Re: Old Bird, New Build

Post by truesteve »

Back in the saddle. After 2 1/2 years and a 287 mile move to the Spokane Wa area, I am finally back to working on the Bird. As soon as I revisit how to post pics, I'll post some pics of the new roller rocker setup. Just as a warning. If you are in the middle of a rebuild/resto mod project, a move is a Terrible idea! If you are even close to being a hoarder, a move is a Terrible idea. If you desire to flee the absolutley insane political & cultural hole along the left coast, then it's all worth it.
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truesteve
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Location: Spokane WA

Re: Old Bird, New Build

Post by truesteve »

After much consideration over rumors that old stock rocker arms are not so compatible with stainless valve stems and crying over the price, I broke down and purchased a set of roller rockers from Doug @ Precision Oil Pumps (POP). Besides the price, the only other concern I had was the increase in ratio from 1:73 to 1:76. After reading on the FE forum I was somewhat satisfied that the slight increase would not cause the valves to wack the pistons. The rockers require honing to ensure correct tolerances on the shafts being used. I purchased a brake hone kit from NAPA for $35 and spent about 10 to 15 seconds per rocker to achieve a nice fit which I checked with the shaft. Use lots of oil when honing, I used the cheapest 10w40 that I keep laying around as a multi purpose lube.

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When using solid spacers over springs, you must set up the rollers to sit directly over each valve stem by using the supplied shims. I used some professional assistance when measuring the shims and checking alignment during setup;

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They (someone) recommended using a pin in place of the clip to ensure the oil plugs don't exit the ends of the shafts. I used an appropriate diameter nail trimmed to length and deburred. Once installed, the shaft end stands will prevent the pin from exiting its hole.

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The new rockers require special ball/ball pushrods. They have different diameter "balls" on each end, larger ball goes to lifter. They are also a little shorter to accommodate the adjusters of the new rockers.

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I used the older valve spring splash shields with the drain valleys, but I drilled drain back holes in the areas behind the head bolt similar to the newer style of shields. The drain valleys required considerable modifications to get clearance with the edelbrock performer rpm manifold. I used a die grinder and several fit checks and grinding sessions to get them to fit. The also require a little tweaking on the sheet metal to ensure clearance on the springs and rocker arms during full range of motion.

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Got the manifold gooped up and installed using arp hardware. a couple of the bolts require a crows foot to torque to 35 ft lbs due to clearance. Also installed the edelbrock water pump (not in photo) and started installing the pre-set rocker arm assemblies.

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More to come as the build blazes on at a snails pace...
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truesteve
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Joined: Mon Nov 11, 2013 4:39 pm
Location: Spokane WA

Re: Old Bird, New Build

Post by truesteve »

Engine almost ready to install. Still looking through boxes after the move to find stuff.

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Careful shimming between rocker stands, separators and arms puts the roller as close to center of the valve stem as can be achieved with the various shims supplied. Torqued the stand hdwr to spec, and then adjusted the rockers by rotating to #1 cylinder and when 1 valve is opened, the other is in the rest position. Adjust the rocker when the valve is in the rest position. Turn adjuster until the slack is removed ( pushrod touching adjuster and seated in lifter) and then rotate between 1/4 and 1 1/2 turns. I went with 1 full turn. My lifters are not pumped up so they can be easily depressed. I completed this for each rocker arm on each cylinder and went around in firing order to keep track. The manufacture didn't have a torque spec for the lock nut on the adjuster. When I contacted them they said "good-n-tight", so I gave it a "good-n-tight" and then checked it with a torque wrench. It came out to aprx 25 ft lbs. So I tightened all of them to 25 Ft lbs for consistency.

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Going to get the bird pushed in the shop today to start the C6 tranny mount, front end rebuild, disc brake kit install and engine bay prep. More photos to follow.
FORD 61 bulletbird white/green Resto mod project
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truesteve
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Joined: Mon Nov 11, 2013 4:39 pm
Location: Spokane WA

Re: Old Bird, New Build

Post by truesteve »

Got the Bird pushed into the shop this weekend, up on jack stands, and the old COM Tranny pulled

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temp home under the tail of the Bird

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New $74 tranny crossmember from trans-dapt on its way. After much research, this option looks to be the easiest to modify for the C6 swap.

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While pulling the front end apart I ran across a few "opportunities" to shine. When using the somewhat scary spring puller I had to put 2-3 inches of bushings on the upper thread area because the threaded rod is too long when the compressor is collapsed completely. The threaded rod goes way down into the spring receptacle and doesn't allow the spring to be pulled out easily. So while prying up on the spring to get the threaded rod to clear the lower spring receiver and tugging on the spring to get it out...the shop air compressor kicked on and caused a code brown in my shorts.

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Spring out and 1 coil cut off with a cutting wheel to lower the front end just a bit, next I'll toss the spring in the blast cabinet to clean it up and get a fresh coat of paint on it.

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Upper A arm had 57 years of yuck embedded in it, still have to get it clean and bushings replaced

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Working with Champion Radiators to get a 4 core aluminum radiator sized to fit into the slanted slightly forward area of the radiator support. The area is only 28 X 18, so if I can get a 27 X 17 radiator built it should fit into the area with some rubber mounting. This will get the radiator to move forward from the stock position about 3 inches on the bottom and 6 inches on the top. The smaller core size (23x15) calculates out to 345 sq inches/or cubic inches of engine, which is a tad shy of the 396 inches needed to cool, but I figure having a 4 cores and extremely tight shroud and 3000 cfm fan should make up for the lack of area. If I can't get a radiator to fit into that area, I'll go with the 64 galaxie 4 core.
FORD 61 bulletbird white/green Resto mod project
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truesteve
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Joined: Mon Nov 11, 2013 4:39 pm
Location: Spokane WA

Re: Old Bird, New Build

Post by truesteve »

$$$$$$ the dollars just keep rolling out the door. I ordered the 4 core aluminum Champion Radiator. It is 27 1/8 X 17 3/4 overall size with the brackets removed. I might have to alter the radiator support to get it into the radiator hole. The radiator # is MC64GL which stands for Monster cool, 1964, Galaxie. It is designed to cool a FE engine in a 64 Galaxie which uses the same expansion tank as our beloved Birds, so It should work just peachy in the Old Bird. I will post photos of the installation once started.
I also ordered the Classic Auto Air system with the optional venting to the stock center AC vent from my parts car. I love the huge chrome center vent. I'll look into supplying a vent to the rear of the console if there is any room within to run a duct. I decided to get the air system installed while the engine bay is open. I also opted for the condenser lines to be uncrimped and an extra 2 feet longer so I can run them where I want them.
I ordered a saginaw style power steering pump, bracket and pulley. Lines will have to wait until I can ensure proper fitting sizes and lengths.
I ordered monroe coil over rear shocks and KYB lowered shocks (1 inch) for the front.
I ordered the torsion bar bushing/grommets and a fuel tank sending unit. I had installed a new tank years ago, but shrugged off the sending unit. After thinking about it I reconsidered the decision and will be installing a new sending unit.
The focus will be on the front suspension/brakes and then the engine bay.
I received the Spicer slip yoke for the C6 and the 134X U-joints to join the C6 to the stock drive shaft, as well as the fore-mentioned tranny mount.
I"m going to attempt to clean up the engine bay by re-routing/hiding the wiring, heater/AC/power steering hoses, fuel lines through the fender well area and inside conduit of some sort to keep the grime off.
FORD 61 bulletbird white/green Resto mod project
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RedBird64
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Location: Bothell Wa.

Re: Old Bird, New Build

Post by RedBird64 »

Very nice work!
Can you tell me what electric fan(s) you went with?
1964 Coupe Wimbledon white/Rangoon Red w/black int. Owned for 42 years. It was my folks car before that (second owners). VTCI # 12013.
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truesteve
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Location: Spokane WA

Re: Old Bird, New Build

Post by truesteve »

It's a Zirgo 3000 cfm, 16 in, 10 amp draw. I originally purchased it to use as a pusher in conjunction with a flex fan. I did this due to my upbringing and distrust of the weakest link within a tiny chinese made component leaving me stranded. But then the paranoia subsided and I realized that I have AAA & a cell phone, and that electric fans have been fairly reliable for quite a few years now. That & spending an hour or 2 on the side of a road probably wouldn't be the end of my little world. I now plan on using only the electric fan but I haven't decided on a specific shroud yet. With a 100 amp alternator, led head & tail lights & a mini starter, the extra draw of a 10 amp fan shouldn't drain the old eveready bunny down too much.
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RedBird64
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Re: Old Bird, New Build

Post by RedBird64 »

Thx.
They seem reliable. I just removed a cheap electric helper fan from my car that has been on it for about 25 years. It still worked fine but I wanted more cooling power and dual speed for its quietness.

Had to LOL at your compressor kicking on at just the right moments. I don't know how many times that has happeded to me and scared the *heck* out of me. :mrgreen:

Scott
1964 Coupe Wimbledon white/Rangoon Red w/black int. Owned for 42 years. It was my folks car before that (second owners). VTCI # 12013.
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truesteve
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Location: Spokane WA

Re: Old Bird, New Build

Post by truesteve »

Continued working on the front end. Removed riveted lower ball joint and cleaned up lower arm and put a protective coat of primer & paint.

URL=http://s346.photobucket.com/user/truest ... e.jpg.html]Image[/URL]

Pulled the rear inner fender well and was relieved to find only leaves, dirt and other DRY material, just a little surface rust on the inside of the inner fender well. NO rust in the lower front quarter panel. Now I can replace the old rubber section of the fuel line that was hidden an get any wiring, power steering lines and fuel line routes into some sort of conduit and clean up the engine bay.

URL=http://s346.photobucket.com/user/truest ... 2.jpg.html]Image[/URL]
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Waiting on spring rubbers, torsion bar rubbers and shocks to assemble. While I'm waiting I'll get the passenger side up to the same level.
FORD 61 bulletbird white/green Resto mod project
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truesteve
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Location: Spokane WA

Re: Old Bird, New Build

Post by truesteve »

Spent 1 1/2 hours cleaning on 1 upper A arm. Wow, what a silly design that catches everything off the road. Luckily there is no rust from the 57 years of gunk collected within all of the areas. If your front suspension has never been cleaned, then I promise it has some goodies stored up for you. In the photos below I spent 30 minutes cleaning one of the A arms, and 2 hours on the other... and it's still not there yet. The initial layer against the metal is hard and must be scraped/chipped off with a putty knife or screwdriver in the smaller areas.

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Recieved shocks and strut rod bushings today so as soon as I get everything cleaned up I can start the assembly process.
FORD 61 bulletbird white/green Resto mod project
FORD 63 bulletbird white/red - parts for sale
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truesteve
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Location: Spokane WA

Re: Old Bird, New Build

Post by truesteve »

Figured out that the original upper A arm strut mount shafts had rubber bushings where the bolts go through to the shock towers. So I ordered new ones from Macs. To get the strut mount bushings off of the A arms, I will have to break out the torch and heat them up, they are STUCK. I started re-routing the wiring, hoses and hood release cable through the fender well area to clean up the engine bay. Just have to make sure that everything is somewhat weather proofed and routed as to not get pinched by suspension movement.
The SNGL LED 9007 dual beams and 5 3/4 buckets came in today. Now I can alter the original buckets to fit the dual beam LED's in the outer holes and the air intake funnels and screens in the inner holes.
Also found a perfect place to mount my plate oil and tranny coolers. The forward fender well shields are right below the headlight buckets and behind the grill area/turn indicators. I will slot a portion of the shields to allow for the incoming air from the grill to flow through the coolers and out into the wheel well. Louvers would work the best, but I don't have a louver tool and since the shields already have stiffening rows I'll just slot and bend openings where I can. I may have to add some re-enforcement's to the shields if they move too much after mounting the coolers.
FORD 61 bulletbird white/green Resto mod project
FORD 63 bulletbird white/red - parts for sale
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FORD 76 F250 4x4 highboy
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truesteve
Posts: 73
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Location: Spokane WA

Re: Old Bird, New Build

Post by truesteve »

RAM AIR - Let the Bird breathe!

Dual beam LED in the outside hole, 4 inch funnel in the inside hole

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LED required a 2 inch clearance hole in the dual bucket for the fan to clear and to get plenty-o-cool air. The air funnel required the single bucket to have the entire back half cut off, and a large portion of the dual bucket cut away.

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had to make 1 "L" bracket to hold the center adjusting screws as 1 leg of the bracket hold the screws was protruding into the 4 inch funnel path, you can see the spot weld areas next to the wire exit hole. It took about 2 hours to figure it all out, the opposite one should only take an hour.

Of course the battery will be relocated to the trunk and I have to see if the hood latch bar will clear the funnel and adjoining air tube. If not then I will have to split the pull cable or go with electric actuators.
FORD 61 bulletbird white/green Resto mod project
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FORD 76 F250 4x4 highboy
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truesteve
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Re: Old Bird, New Build

Post by truesteve »

Unable to post further photos due to the vampires at Photobucket. DO NOT USE THEIR SERVICE unless you enjoy have constant popups asking for paid upgrades with no exit option and a Surprise limit on sharing or hosting images. Trapping users instead of pleasing them is a tactic deployed by strip clubs and casinos. I will have to delete all photos from their site, and try to cancel the account. Then I will have to find a photo hosting service that understands the treatment of customers directly corresponds to profit margins.
FORD 61 bulletbird white/green Resto mod project
FORD 63 bulletbird white/red - parts for sale
FORD 85 F350 4x4 Diesel Turbo Dually/Crew
FORD 76 F250 4x4 highboy
FORD 48 8N Tractor work horse
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