Vintage Thunderbird Club International

The schematic I was using was out of a 62/63 shop manual, they were combined with a 63 supliment. If yours was an early car maybe look at a 62 wiring schematic/diagram. I am. That's where the schematic clip above came from. It does not match reality, as do a lot of things in the shop manual and ele...

Tom, I am wrong about where they split on the engine compartment side. They both leave pin 2 on the upper block but then separate behind/below the brake booster My early 62 does not have any upper block. There is only one block down low by the headlight dimmer switch. That is why I cannot find the ...

The pink resistor wire runs from the switch to the upper firewall block on the drivers side.

That is distinctly different from the 62. I cannot find the branch on mine.

Mac's sells the white stripe 5/8". It says "with correct grooves", but I can't tell from the photo. They also sell 3/4", but I have a feeling it's the same stuff you could get at your local auto parts store. http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_thunderbird/ford-thunderbird-reproduct...

Have you actually been able to locate where it goes? On my 62, it is a pink wire that oddly goes into a wiring harness that heads up toward the radio to parts unknown. It doesn't appear to go through that junction block on the lower driver's side where everything else is. I have tried to figure it o...

A piece of thread tied to the replacement spring at one end and a small washer at the other made sure I wouldn't lose this one during installation. What a brilliant idea! I might add that to my instructions. Too bad you didn't think of that on the first spring. Glad everything worked out. You'll pr...

Very good. I hope you find the problem. The replacement conventional IVR's are fairly expensive, which is why I suggested the LM7805.

Thanks for the help. Hopefully its just a bad ground. These devices are notorious for failing due to burned/corroded contacts or a burned out coil. Since the output is a pulse from 0 to 12V you can only see it work with an analog voltmeter. I suggest opening the can up to see what it looks like ins...

Unless you are an absolute purist, you can make a solid state instrument voltage regulator (I find it an oxymoron to call them constant as they are as far from constant as you can get and that is why the choke is there) for a few dollars. I have some instructions here: http://www.vintagethunderbirdc...

Wow. No replies. I guess people run when it comes to electrical issues. I had a similar issue many years ago. The culprit is most likely the blue/yellow-stripe wire that comes from the horn contact inside the steering wheel. If it contacts ground, the horn will go off. Since you say it happens when ...

Dang, Tom - that was an awesome 'how-to' pictorial!

Thank you. I meant to do one for the leaf springs, but for some reason I didn't. That would have been a good one.

I'll move this to general discussion.

I see that from the vacuum canisters the hose that's going into my dash was cut and plugged . When I went under the passenger side dash I noticed a black hose with white stripe that was cut . You didn't indicate if the car has A/C or not but since you mentioned canister, I presume you have A/C. Her...

Yep, I plan to do that - thanks for the specs (but WHERE is the O/P sending unit?) It's on top of the oil filter adapter on the left (driver's) front side of the engine. If you have A/C it may be hard to get to so you can get to it from underneath. I'm not sure if those gauges come with the correct...

OK, yeah, that sounds like a pretty iffy effort (for me). So, to open it up, it's basically yank the carb & intake, covers & rocker assembly (but NOT the heads)? Btw, I have seen the pushrods in box method - but why do that, if replacing them? (maybe to measure and get the correct replaceme...