Vintage Thunderbird Club International

Rusty57 wrote: ↑Sun May 12, 2024 11:18 pm During the time period these cars were designed the typical calibration was that 1000 revolutions should equal one mile. This also meant that 1000 rpm should make the speedometer register 60 mph.

FYI When my 56 auto fordomatic 312 hits 60 I'm at 3000 rpms consistently. But my speedo is at 80.

That's a full $5 more than here in MD. Outrageous.

Interesting idea. What keeps them snug? The dash pad has extra material around both openings. It keeps both clock and tach fairly snug. No rattles at all. Every now and again road bumps may accumulate and I need to push them back in a little. For me the convenience of simply pulling one out to gain...

The oil port exists on my 56. Here's how I do it. I remove the clock and use the hole to access the speedo port. I have a long plastic pipet with a squeeze bulb that I put a little oil in. Then I fish that to the port and squeeze. I leave my clock in place without the nuts and washers so that I can ...

(if a thief wants it, they'll get it, and if someone wants something in it, I'd rather they get it than tear up the car getting into it...and I don't keep anything of any value in the car, for that reason) Really. The glass is worth more than the wireless speaker and Walmart sunglasses I have inside.

Thought about that too. Decided to order the springs from concourse parts at the handle (21910) and at the latch (21812-s) (pairs for both sides) so that I have them next time I open up the door panel and get the gumption to investigate. For now I can manually work with it.

I think this is a pic of the part that makes the door latch spring back. Anyone have experience replacing this? Can it be done in place or am I looking at having to remove the whole remote arm to get at it?

Top off weather here in wash dc area. Motoring around and stopped for dinner. Opened the driver's door and heard a faint "click". Got out and went to shut door and it wouldn't latch. Looked inside and the door latch was still up and hadn't returned to close. I can close manually and everyt...

Agrebuilders have quick turnaround. I ended up buying an over priced US unit on eBay. It arrived with the not pulling vacuum problem, so used it as a core and had it rebuilt by ag.

Based purely on actual calculations , not based on gas gage. Again, it makes no sense but fairly consistent.

This makes no sense, but I've noticed that if I refill at quarter to half full tank my gas mileage will be higher than if I refill towards empty. It's pretty consistent too. The Holley 600 came off another classic, barely used but a great price. No gas smell, and it runs great. No issues and easy to...

My gas gauge is not reliable, I know shocker. So knowing how many miles I've driven in the tank is really important (I've run out of gas by pushing the limit too much over 175 miles). I'm automatic stock, except Holley 600 carb, elec distributor, after market AC and pusher fan. So I use an app calle...

I bought this kit and another comparable one to see which one I would use. I ended up using this one but also used the brass nut from the second kit. I had to open the hour hand ring a good bit to get it around the post. I used the second hand from the kit and clipped it down to size and painted it ...

POST MORTEM? ... She ran well for about 9 months. Stopped and sent her back in for cleaning under warranty. Then she ran well for another 9 months and stopped. I pulled her and cleaned her myself. Then another 3 months or so and stopped again. While pulling her I blew the fuse (again), since it's ve...

ward 57 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 14, 2024 6:09 pm It is much easier to re key the ignition than the doors. You will have it out anyway. If one key works the ignition & doors and the other the glove box & trunk you are good.

Yes good point.