Vintage Thunderbird Club International

Probably a safety thing... No windows if the ignition is off.

I modified the relay a little so it is permanently engaged. Works for now.

Hi, My power window relay seems to be broken. When the ignition is switched on (or in acc) all 3 wires are supposed to be 12V? So would it be possible to connect black and red-blue to have the windows permanently available? Just looking for a temporary fix, I always disconnect the battery anyway. Th...

Thanks for the in-depth explanation, Raven. So, I took the brass block out and put it in again with Loctite 542 and torqued again to specs. Turned much farther than before. One reason mentioned by Raven above, the other one maybe the Loctite working as a lube here. I let the Loctite set/dry for 24 h...

What about Loctite 542? Looks like this is made for threads on hydraulic tubing.

Yes, '64.

@David: Wish I had someone like that! @jtschug: The flare nuts seal fine. The problem is the tapered thread of the distributor block that goes into the master. Which doesn't seal when torqued to specs. My theory is that these replacement parts are not exactly like they were back in the day. But yes,...

I made a new break line from the junction behind the inner fender to the master. Much better now, the old one was way too short. Time well spent. Still leaking at the master / distributor block connection. Even with another quarter turn it wouldn't seal. :roll: Not sure what I can do now beside buyi...

@sseebart, I torqued to 12 ft lbs which is the max amount according to manual. I'll proceed then, have to redo the rear brake line because it's too short for the different angle. The brake line junction behind the inner front fender will be really useful here. @64ZCODE, when I couldn't get rid of th...

Still working on this, lol. Turned out that some connections were too lose. I could stop the bubbles during bench bleed. But still had brake fluid leaking from the master during brake bleed. I finally made a little tool http://www.frs635.com/thunderbird/master_tool.jpg and tightened the connector bl...

Took Joe's advice and reduced to one return line. Removing the brass block and connect the line directly isn't possible because the master thread doesn't have a flare. I also made a new flare on a brake line and found a transparent line. So I can see the bubbles now: http://www.frs635.com/thunderbir...

I disassembled the old-old master to see what's going on inside. Will post pics later. I'm pretty sure now the air enters from the front. There is another hole further to the back and there are never bubbles from that hole. Edit: when I remove the brake pipes the bubbles stop. Have to test more tomo...

Still working on the master... Some weeks ago I got a new brass block, but it leaked at the thread where it is connected to the (Raybestos) master too. I then ordered a new master, this time a Centric. I still get bubbles: https://youtu.be/7pEpnTdhC6s New master, new brass block. Could this be norma...

Did it some years ago, with the dash out. I put numbers on everything I removed. For reassembly I could follow the numbers backwards. Today you take pics with your phone I guess. I also got adhesive tape in different colors so I could keep the color coding. Best thing about the repair is that the hi...

Here's a new Spectra tank, the version with venting. It only had that first short brass tube, the rest has to be built. Also, it does not come with clips for the longer brass tube. https://www.frs635.com/thunderbird/spectra.jpg I think the outlet should be farther forward, like in the middle. The br...

OK, I won't do that and wait for the block to arrive. Meanwhile push the car around.

With the minimum line length that my flare tool needs this would not have been pretty.