Vintage Thunderbird Club International

Thanks Tony.

1964 Landau I want to drop the steering shaft. Before I remove the 2 bolts, looks like I should remove the bolts from the pivot bracket so the trim door panels can safely drop. Maybe disconnect the neutral safety switch too? Am I on the right track? How far will it drop? The cluster is loose, but th...

Put the new steering joint in, put the gearbox end on first. The shaft on this end has a rounded groove in it perpendicular to the shaft and the bolt fits thru it, so no question there about proper position. I removed the steering wheel and bearing retaining spring so I could move the steering shaft...

Both joint hubs came off easily and I removed the coupling in one piece, the steering column shaft moved up enough to get it out. Did it move too much?
Going to pull the steering wheel and check it out.

Raven, looks like wheel well method could work. I have the two 12pt bolts out. What do you think about using the bolt to spread the coupling just enough to loosen it by putting it in the threaded end and screwing it in to push the coupling open. My 73 yr old body hopes this works. Let me know what y...

Thanks, couple of questions, you left the hinge attached to the hood?
I am assuming I will need to remove the halves from each shaft because the assembly is riveted. Is it better to buy a new complete unit?

I need to do this job. Is it best to go thru the rear inner fender liner or from the top? I hate to mess with the brake booster and hood hinge so I am hoping someone has done from below and can give me some tips. 7 years ago I put a new lower steering bushing in from below but that was a much much e...

Hi Jim, well it’s 7 years later and I need help again to replace my rag joint. Your help putting in the lower steering rubber bushing by splitting it half and installing it was fantastic advice. Do you have a procedure for replacing the rag joint by access thru the inner fender well? You previously ...

Mine is a Landau with A/C and power windows. The wiring fix where the ammeter was removed looks great. I give up, towing it to the shop. Thanks guys

[*]Wow, did not know there was a joint up in there. I can take a look, I already have the vent mechanism off to work in that area anyway. My firewall connectors are good, albeit replaced by heavy duty bolted connectors.

Stubbie, did you have to remove the dash to fix it?

Thanks Bob and Scott, hopefully I can figure it out with a mirror or my hands. NOW I know what I’m looking for.

Thanks Steve, I am looking to see if someone made a splice that has broken apart, I have no power, except for the horn.

Back at this same problem and hesitating to pull cluster. Quit on it in September.
Does anybody know what Ford mechanics would do to bypass the ammeter in a 64? Mine is definetly gone.
Removed clock assembly and looking for splice.

Would they simply splice the two wires together?

Angrybirds, how did this turn out?
I am going thru the same thing with my 64.